Do it!! sounds like a great truck that has been maintained. I jumped at my first rover after looking at 23 different ones from d1 to d2. I have a 98 LSE and it's great. Bottom rad hose busted and subsequently blew a head gasket(women driving overheating engine grr) took me 200$ and a week to fix cleaning everything completely, can be done quicker but it was my first time to ever attempt it. I got my rover as well with the edition of three kids to family selling my Toyota t-100 that had 290xxxmi on it(great truck). Good luck and oil is most likely valve covers like others said my motor looks like that just tighten those bolts and she'll be gravy.

 

I would do it, provided the price is right. Rovers can be a pain sometimes, but for the most part they really are work horses, if maintained properly. When I say “maintained properly” they are the perfect vehicle for someone who is in tune with their car, does research and can just tell when even the smallest thing is out of the ordinary. If I had to relate this experience to something else, it would be flying and maintaining aircraft. Small subtle vibrations, noises, etc. can go un-noticed by many, and a seemingly harmless worn part can cause catastrophic failure. Catch things ahead of time, and you won’t have any nasty surprises.

You seem to know your way around cars, and rovers are not as complicated as many think. If you keep an eye on it and take care of it, it will take care of you. I would also like to state, not just as an LR enthusiast, but as dealer who has driven countless 4x4s including rovers. They really do hold their own. It seems like every Jeep and almost every domestic as well as many Asian SUVs, aside from a few are falling apart mechanically after 150k miles. Land Rovers, well they may be falling apart cosmetically like every other car, but mechanically they are 9 times out of 10 just fine. Every land rover I have driven at the auctions so far has shown no signs of major mechanical problems. I’ve driven absolute piles with the land rover badge on them, and they run and drive fine. Yet, ½ of every jeep I’ve driven over 150k (not exaggerating) feels like you are going to die while driving it, is blowing white or blue smoke, or is overheating. I have ironically, yet to come across a rover that overheats at auction.

Just curious, what are they asking? If its reasonable, ask yourself “what are the alternatives?”. Frankly most of them suck lol. The only alternatives I would consider is an explorer/expedition, possibly a Durango (only the v8 version though), Hyundai Santa Fe (if you don’t do much off-roading), Izuzu trooper (also have head problems, but the rest of the rig holds up), Blazers (I hate them, they drive terrible, but they are good cheap suvs), pathfinders/xterras are pretty good too. All of which I am not a fan of, but do seem to hold up. Of course, whatever you decide, make sure it is in the best interest of your family, Land Rover or not.

 

It's defintly the head gasket, no oil on the front of the head, just down the front of the block, it's coming from the gasket area between the block and head.

Well I worked out a deal assuming my mechanic doesn't find anything major wrong with it. He has a spare trans for it that he is including (said that the trans felt like it slipped on him one time and he got a deal on a rebuilt trans from a rover place that was going out of business so he picked it up just in case, but it has never done it since...) . He is gonna buy the intake gasket set and headbolts ($200) and we are trading even, no money out of my pocket, I was asking $4500 for my dually and figured id take $3800 bottom dollar so i think its a good deal, at leat I am happy with it.

 

Sounds good. Most of us that have a running Rover that we have slaved over would want a decent price if we were inclined to sell.
The 98 has all the refinements but also has the CDL. Read up on all that stuff if not familar.

 

What is CDL? Locking diff or something?

Here are a few teaser pics. Crappy resolution but its someting anyway.

 

She's pretty.

 

CDL = Central Differential Lock

 

She's real pretty same Color as my 98'lse cleans and shines real nice when washed!!

 

I have a 1998 LSC and after chasing away the overheating problem BEFORE it went bad I am Very Happy with it. HAD 98,000 when bought now has 102386. Since replacing the cooling system, Radiator $232.00 Water Pump $68.00, belts hoses and 180 Stat another $300.00. It has been 100% trouble free. I have driven it everyday since the rework, 80 miles each day on paved and unpaved roads. NO PROBLEMS at all. I run Mid range fuel and getting 16.9 mpg. When I use the high test, translate no corn at all it gets up to 18 mpg. I have cases of fuel stuff we use in the race car, Octane Boost on steriods, so that is how I burn mid grade.
A/C is super cold and the ride is great, wife loves it when I let her near it other than a passenger.

 

Is that the Champagne Color?

The CDL shifter should move freely side to side . toward drivers seat engages the center diff and then you got true four wheel drive, use only off-road or slick conditions, never on dry pavement or you will damage drivetrain. A light on dash should come on when locked. Move toward pax seat should disengage. Do not engage if wheels have lost traction. (Engage before getting stuck)