New Distributor is in - Holy Sh*t that nut that holds the clamp in place is hard to get to. I sure hope I don't have to take it out again.

Also - I had to "jury" rig the wiring - as the new Amplifier is connected directly to the distributor. My old one had two wires coming out which went to a plug, that then ran to the amplifier mounted near the ignition coil by the headlight.

I have to go get some wire (as I had to extend the wiring from the Amplifier to the coil) - and I have to set the timing.

I bought a timing light. My question is - The new Distributor fit right in - but I could rotate it after the gear was engaged. I turned it a bit so that the new ICM is not damn near touching the engine block (I was worried about heat). The rotor is currently pointing almost at the clamp you see in the picture.



Help, I'm so confused on what to do now. Not sure how to set the timing - Where to point the rotor to begin etc. Please start me from scratch. I sure hope I don't have to pull out the distributor and turn the rotor again - it's nearly impossible to get to the nut that holds the clamp.

 

You adjust the timing by turning the dizzy with the engine running and the timing light hooked up to #1 cylinder.
I do not know what the BTC degree's arfe supposed to be set at.

 

perhaps this page for pre-GEMS will help. Once GEMS got added, no more timing published, because GEMS models adjust timing per cylinder and they can all be different to correct for knock, load, air flow, etc.

 

I think I was more scared to try and set the timing than I needed to be. I know it's off - because it won't start. Savannah Buzz - I saw that page - couldn't make heads or tails of it yesterday, but now it kind of makes sense.

What does the crankshaft vibration damper look like and where is it? I am going to look - but "regular" explanation help.

Also - what do the timing marks look like?

Thanks for your help guys. Hopefully I can find the timing marks - line them up and then get this thing started. If I'm not mistaking - it should start - then I use the timing light to adjust it right?

Spike - BTW - according to the RAVE manual - 6 degrees BTDC. Last question - What the hell does BTDC stand for?

Update:
Found this thread - https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ustment-31452/

this stuff is starting to make sense. Sounds like I have to pull out the distributor, find the 6 degree mark - then drop in the distributor with the rotor pointing towards the 1LH HT Lead (What does HT stand for?)....only question I have is...how do I make sure the "oil pump shaft" is engaged?

 

The vibration damper is the round pulley on the bottom of the engine, it is the crank shaft pulley, it has a metal center, rubber ring and then metal outside that the belt rides on.

There is a gauge next to it on the right top, it has marks on it, those are the timing marks.
It will need to be cleaned off so it can be read.

BTDC before top dead center.
TDC is the exact moment the piston is at its top most position, it cant go up any farther and its very next move will start its downward stroke.

Using white chalk you mark the 6 degree mark on the gauge, hook up your timing light, set the #1 cylinder at TDC, have a friend crank the engine over while you watch the mark, the light will flash when the spark plug sparks.
Turning the dizzy will "move" the mark on the gauge.
Once you get it where it is supposed to be tighten the bolt that holds the dizzy in place.
It has been a long time since I've set timing but that is the basics.

According to what you posted the spark plug on the #1 cylinder is supposed to spark 6 degrees before the piston reaches its top most movement, this allows time for the fuel to be compressed, ignited and burned just as the piston starts it downward movement.
Ignite the fuel to soon and the energy is wasted because the fuel fights the upward movement of the piston, this is called pre-detonation (spark knock) and sounds like a ping, or ball bearings rolling around in a metal can.
This will ruin a engine over a extended period of time.
Ignite the fuel to late (piston is already on its way down) and you waste energy because the fuel is not pushing the piston as hard.
Ignition timing is a exact science with very little room for error.

Get it running, then worry about your final adjustment.
Leave the set screw that holds the dizzy in place loose so you can turn the dizzy while a friend cranks the engine over with the key.

 

I found the most useful video on Youtube.... Even though this is being demonstrated on a small block Chevy - I think the concept is the same. Thought I would post this for anyone else needing help doing timing.


Well - off to loosen that stupid nut I hate.....errr love so much.

 

Spike - THANK YOU FOR THIS EXPLANATION. This combined with everything I have read - and the video's I have seen, then re-reading it all three times...it is starting to make sense. You will make a quasi mechanic out of me yet! Thanks again...I can't wait to have my Rover Running again. I miss my baby.

Skrat

 

WOOOOOO HOOOOO! I found it... I found the marks. They are pretty clean and visible, because if you remember when I first posted in an earlier forum - the guy that had this did the timing, heads and everything. I will post pics of all the work he did later - but I think once I get this running - I have a gem because of all the work that was done, and all the work I'm doing. Damn, I'm getting excited!

I'm going to get this yet!

 

Just be careful what you touch! HT MEANS "HIGH TENSION".

IT MEANS HOLD TIGHT!...

Those fat wires will light you up!

 

Guess what everyone - I got it running!!! I can't believe it. I also had a "good catch" as I noticed the wires didn't seem to be right. When I changed the distributor - I had moved all the wires by 1 position - they were all off. I reset those - found the 6 degree mark - it fired right up.

The only issue is a "knock" pretty loud at first - then when adjusting the "dizzy" I got it to quite down a bit, but do to the limited amount I can rotate the "dizzy", I couldn't quite eliminate it. Does this mean I have to take out the distributor - set it to a slightly different degree to begin with - then re-do this process? I think so.

I am confused by the rave...the page about the distributor says "Set Engine #1 Piston to static ignition timing figure - SEE ENGINE TUNING DATA...." That page has different settings for different compression ratio's - ranging from 2 to 5 degrees.

The page about Ignition Timing says ".....or if distributor has been disturbed for any reason, ignition timing must be set statically to 6 degrees"

I am confused what setting to start at. Will go try 4 degrees I guess. See if the knock goes away.