I would get a meter and start making readings before I went out and spent anymore money on parts unless you have an excess of disposable income. If you don't have a meter, go spend 30 bucks or so on one of them and learn how to use it.

Remove the cover for the fuel pump, have someone turn the key and see if it has 12 volts available to the pump. If not apply 12 vdc to the pump from a separate source and see if it pumps. Get underneath the vehicle and manually/visually trace that wire bundle making sure you did not smash it into pieces off-roading.

Look at the electrical section in the RAVE and make some resistance/continuity readings to see if the wiring is good to the pump.

Just for grins, I took my GreenLee multimeter and the old pump from my Disco and did a resistance reading across the pos and neg terminals on the removed pump. On the 20K range, it read approx 10K ohms, showing I guess that it is not burned open nor is it shorted out.

Why don't you check the resistance readings of the ones you say failed and see what they show?

 

That one shows it is for the 4.6, is yours a 4.0? Are the parts the same for both engines?

 

Didn't read the whole post, but I'ts eather a short in the system, or a power overload. Pop out the meter, it is your friend. Would attach leads and drive with it on, while having a friend annotate the readings as you go.

 

I don't think it is running for him currently, but he could still probe the various spots with a meter and learn a lot. I like the idea of attaching the leads and driving.

It would be a shame to keep buying parts before verifying the harness with a meter, but some people.....................

 

When it ran for 120K with no issues, it apparently had the required 12 volts. Now that you have gone thru 3 in 3 weeks and it last quit from a jolt from hitting a big rut is all the more reason to test the voltage at the pump, otherwise you could replace every part concievable and it still not run if it's not getting 12 volts to it such as a damaged wire would cause.

When you were jarring the teeth out of it were you also getting it good and wet?

If your type of off-roading is to hit all the big ruts hard, you will find lots more problems than if you ease off a little.

It is described as follows: As slow as possible as fast as needed. The Land Rover will serve you much better in the long run if you embrace that principle.

If you are going to romp it and stomp it, bash it and thrash it, and drive it like you stole it, I would recommend an older model K5 Blazer with a built up 350 and their heavy duty driveline.

 

If you can probe the wires while it is running then that is what I would recommend. Have you bench tested the old pumps to see if they were working when removed?

British car manufacturers in general do not have a good track record electrically speaking. Hence the reason I would suspect electrical over mechanical.
This is how I diagnose on Audi's everyday as well.

 

Ok. I ordered the crank sensor this afternoon. I found it under the rig and the cover is cracked. Have no idea if that matters.

No,I was just going through some mud and it kept stalling so I was trying to get out. I was driving fast to get back to civilization and didn't see this rut and slam cars dead and here I am. Tested inertia switch and it's ok.

So I reach my hands up to oil city take sensor cover off pull old sensor put a new one in and attach the connector? I tried to follow the lead from the sensor but I could reach that far. Can I do this with the exhaust still on? If it's just the sensor then I think I can do it. If it has a long lead I have a feeling exhaust needs to come off as well.

I am going to try this if it doesn't work then go electrical route.

 

It won't help. Regardless of the sensor, the pump should turn on for a few seconds and the truck should start and then die once pressure is relieved.

Answer my questions and I can be of more assistance.

 

sometimes the sending units, the thing the pump connects to can short out as well. seen this happen on a lot of vehicles. pump will work for a bit ,then it can't take it anymore and offs itself.

 

First thank you everyone for helping me! Thanks for letting me call you Mike.

It ended up being a wiring issue. She is running now . Very happy about that .

Hopefully I can go about 6 months without having to be towed again. It's such a pain in the ***. I am constantly spending to keep it on the road but I love driving it when it does run so it's like that ex gf love/hate relationship.