In what way was the new bearing defective?
AB should have paid for next day shipping for a new bearing.
Shop shouldn't have done the job and put in an old bearing unless you told them to reuse the old bearing.

 

Well, I had them replace the master cylinder, the slave cylinder, and the hose and they bled again. I don't hear a squeal, still sounds like I'm stripping gears. Shop insists this is defective bearing. I took it to another shop and they said it sounded like hydraulics but wanted me to take it back where I went to see if they would make it right. The first shop hasn't even given me a price to replace the bearing. I'm supposed to take it back there wed. How much should I pay for this?

 

How can you determine if the bearing is defective, by looking at it?

 

It will be tough determining if it is bad. It did work to a point where it did actuate the pressure plate. A bad T/O bearing will be very loose in its housing, spinning it by hand, it should feel rough.

 

The price should $0.00 unless you told them to go ahead and reuse the old bearing. I would never do a clutch job for a customer without including a new bearing unless they told me specifically to reuse the old one. And I'd get it in writing.

 

I bought a clutch kit which included the bearing. They said the new bearing is defective and I will have to pay labor again.

 

Have I been misreading this?
Did they:
1. Reuse the old bearing
or
2. Install the new bearing are now saying the new one is bad

If #1 then it shouldn't cost you anything unless you told them to reuse the old bearing. In which case you have had an expensive lesson.

If #2 ask them to explain how a bad release bearing can cause gears to grind when shifting.

If you look at how a clutch functions I don't see how a bad bearing can gears to grind and I've never seen or heard of it happening in over 40 years of working on cars.

 

An update: I took car to another shop and they re-bled the system. The sound was much better but did not go away. What is really weird is the sound does go away after driving it and it gets warm. I took it to yet another shop and had them change the fluid. They are saying the transmission is the trouble. I find that hard to believe as I didn't have any problems when I took it to the first shop. Plus the fact that the sound of grinding does go away after I drive it for awhile. I have asked numerous people about this and most of them say it is the clutch-pressure plate, incorrect install of clutch, etc. I don't have any problems shifting gears. They did find some loose bolts and bent stuff under the car which was another sound I was hearing. That noise is gone now. Please give me a course of action. The last shop wasn't a transmission shop but has a good rep. Thanks

 

Hey, I know someone on this forum could at least try to give me a hand with my clutch/transmission problem. I may not be describing it well enough but I really would appreciate some help. I am not trying to make a nuisance of myself. I have already spent more than the car is worth. Can ya'll give me a break please.
Thanks

 

You never answered my questions in post 17. It's difficult to help when you don't reply.