Well being somewhat new to Land Rovers I have read a lot about how critical it is to keep these engines cool. I've read many a thread about cooling system repairs, and maintence. Lots of good info to take in.

One question I have is: are there things i can do to upgrade the cooling system for extreme tempretures? I live in a place where the outside temp can and frequently does exceed 105 degrees. The moving air here is not like it is elsewhere w humidy in the air. It feels more like a hair dryer.

I keep thinking external oil coolers, "water wetter" coolant additives, aluminum radiators, super cool thermostats, ect etc. I want to literally not have to worry about creeping along in the desert four wheeling in July. These must be capable of such things as I see them pictured in African desert excursions all the time. Or is the stock cooling system adiquate enough for extreme use?

My truck has a rebuilt engine, a new radiator, new water pump, new thermostat, new fan clutch. So I'm wondering if I'm prepared.

 

The stock system is fine if in good shape and maintained, no mods really needed other than perhaps the soft spring thermostat. I've posted the PN in a couple of threads.

 

Ditto, and water wetter certainly helps.

 

I ran for a year with no clutch fan because I did not know it was bad, even when running a trail in August 95*F temps with 80% humidity (makes it fell like well over 100) and the a/c on for 4 hours she never overheated.

In the Middle East they use what is called a Saudi Grill, it is a mesh grill that allows more air flow, it gets over 120*F over there and thats all they did to keep her cool, so I think you'll be fine.
I actually think Eric has one, I'm sure he'll post a pic.

 

Oh that's encouraging news. Thanks guys. Gonna get new coolant maybe w some additives,and ill throw in a cooler thermostat.

 

A 180 F stat is a good unit, do not get the "fail safe" versions. Be sure old rad is up to snuff, it could have sludge and scale blocking the lower rows. Good condition is no more that 10F, measure top to bottom on the fins. Higher spread indicated lower rows colder because of low flow. Get a scanner or ultra gauge to see real temp. You can remove your grille to see what difference a Saudi approach would make in your area.

As for minor mod, I did replace my stock fan with one from a 2000 Chevy Blazer 4.3. It is deeper (more pitch) and moves more air at low speeds. Runs in the 180s here in summer when it is 100 or more. Chevy fan clutch is same thread as our water pump.

You could also wire a bypass switch to force your electric fans on, even when you don't have AC on. On the other hand, I can't imagine Vegas without AC.

 

Wow that pic of the scanner is pretty intense. I have a real time data scanner but yea an Ultra gauge is definitely in the works. My rad is new so I will assume its fine but I will check w my laser thermometer.

Thanks for the 4.3 tips! Very good to know.

 

It is important to note that Rover temp gauges are not known for being precise instruments. And an owner can drive for months or even years will slow roasting the engine over hickory coals. IMHO that is a great contibuting factor to the head gasket and slipped sleeve issues, the owners don't know that they have long term overheating.

 

i picked up one of these clutch fans today, how do I use it it is bigger then the opening in the shroud do I need to remove the shroud or mod it somehow?

 

Just the clutch, unbolt it from the new fan. You'll need to drill the holes larger on the new clutch.