Trying to locate the source of a click in the top center of the engine. Mechanic reviewed rocker arms yesterday and says that I have a lifter that is not holding pressure. Strange, because it was before he removed and cleaned them all. Is there an "O" ring in a lifter? I have pretty much reached the end of my rope with the guy, and he is ready to never see this car again, so we closed it up and I brought it home.

I had driven it into town (20 miles) early in the morning and it arrived with no problem. In the afternoon it died twice on the road, but restarted after 15 minutes of cool down. New coolant temp sensor, vss rebuilt, but yesterday the car started normally after forgetting to hook up the MAF. Disconnected it afterwards and no change. (that can't be good news). The Dist amp had already been relocated, but to another hot spot, right next to the radiator tank! Today I will relocate it to behind the headlights, looks simple, and will give that a try.

The third persisting issue is the timing. Slop in chain, engine rattles climbing a grade with lots of throttle, almost sounds like pinging, but at a higher frequency, like a rattle. When I retard timing, the noise stops, but then the car won't start until I advance the timing again. When I apply suction to the vacuum advance it moves, but only about a fraction of an inch. What would be normal movement. Weights are cleaned and lubed well, holds a vacuum well. I am trying to run it in the "sweet spot", but obviously something isn't right. Chain? Thanks in advance, Bill

 

Chain. Premium fuel. Or octane boost + local fuel.

On the lifter (tappet) there is no O-ring. See attached page. If gunk inside, may leak down too quick. This is the sort of thing that sometimes a good solvent cleaner, like BG here in the states, can help with. You may be able to get other solvents, from Marvel Mystery Oil, etc. Some run a couple of quarts of ATF fluid with the oil and warm up the truck before an oil change. Old school is kerosene. Any solvent a'int oil. So more solvent and longer "working time" equals more engine wear.

Attached are pages on tappets from the shop manuals. He may have not kept them in order, so now the one worn for position "X" is in position "W".

 

Thanks so much SB, sure sounds like a chain to me too. It's pretty slack, but the mechanic said it was normal! I run hi-test, but this is CR, who knows what it really is! You're right, the push rods, tappets, lifters, etc, were all mixed up after I was specific with him to keep them in order. He said it made no difference! There have been numerous blatant mistakes made on this project, too late now. I swapped location of the dist amp. I'll report back later on after my next attempted trip. Bill