Gentleman – first time doing the front brakes on the D1. Going to be replacing rotors and pads. I have done plenty of Chevy's, Toyotas, Fords and my D2. The caliper is plenty rusting and the pins were a PIA to get out. I guess there were suppose to be spring on the pins?

I am use to removing the typical two bolts that hold the caliper in place and just wiring it to the coil spring to keep it out of the way. The “Rave” says to “Release brake hose clips and remove brake caliper. Secure to one side”. So what am I missing? I remove the spring load clip where the flex line meets the steel line on the caliper itself and nothing moved. Do I undo the two bolts that hold the ABS sensor down that seems to be apart of the same brakes? Thanks in advance. RS

 

Nope! Those bolts hold the swivel pin in. Your best bet is to remove the steel line at the caliper. You will want to get the bleeder screw loose first, so you can bleed the system after you refill it with brandy new fluid which is a must do. These calipers tend to hold a lot of crap by design, flushing them out with new fluid will only help.

Loosen the line at the caliper, then remove the caliper bolts and lift up on the caliper to free the line so you don't have to bend it. When you reinstall the caliper just make sure the line goes into the hole as you lower it into position and start the caliper mounting bolts. Once the mounting bolts are tight you should be able to start threading the line by hand with a little wiggling of the steel line.

I hope you had the foresight to get new lock washers for the spindle nuts, it is unlikely you will be able to reuse the old ones. Make sure you keep everything in order as it comes off and take your time. Check the condition of the bearings and races, if you see anything that looks questionable replace the bearings. They are Timken 37's, Napa SET37, etc. The bearing adjustment can be a PITA to get just right, you will get it just right and then tighten the locknut and find it too tight. Be patient.

When you get it all back together fill the master cylinder with fresh fluid and open the bleeder on the caliper. Let it gravity bleed until the fluid runs clear so you know it's the fresh fluid coming out. Then you can bleed the system as you would any other vehicle.

 

I would, based on your pictures, get those calipers cleaned, get new springs and bleeder screws and check for torn caliper seals. Along with that you should seriously consider removing. cleaning or installing new wheel bearings and seals.
Make sure to do a full 2 quart DOT4 brake flush.

 

Thank you for the reply gentleman.......

I was planning on inspecting the wheel bearings and seals and going from there.

Yeah the calipers are rusty......I was considering buying remanned calipers. About $75 from Advanced Auto with $50 core.

Also.......ONE of the ceramic pads i got from Advanced Auto has an embedded wear sensor, the other three nothing. None of the existing pads on my 96 have sensor. Did they add this on later D1's?

 

Cut the wire to that sensor, those pads are used on other cars/trucks that have that sensor.

 

pm sent.....

 

And a little movie to make it lok sooo easy. LandroverWorkshopDVD.com How to change a land rover range rover wheelbearing brake disc hub caliper - YouTube

 

So the OP doesn't get too concerned, they can be reused if you have a good way of flattening them back out. I use a large bench vise as well as a 2lb hammer to coerce them for reuse.

 

Slot the bracket that holds the flex line. That way you won't have to break the hydraulic system open next time you need to remove the caliper.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...acement-39705/

 

Yes, just flatten the washer out good, then when reassembled use a different spot from original on the washer to bend over.