I have a 98 D1 V8. I’m pretty sure my radiator is clogged. I’ve tried to flush it, but no improvements have been made.

Above 65-70 degrees if you sustain 75+ mph the temp will creep up. It’s fine around town, idling, etc. Bit if you do those speeds, and get off the highway right away and sit in traffic. It will have trouble shedding the heat. New 180 degree stat as well.


Can you remove the radiator without pulling the fan? I don’t have a tool, and would prefer to not wait on ordering one. Also, does anyone know what size and quantity of O-rings are needed for the transmission and oil cooler hoses?

 

I had similar overheating issues and a new radiator took care of it.

You do have to remove the fan. I have a thin adjustable wrench from HF that barely fits in there, but it works. It's worth trying your adjustable to see if it fits to avoid buying a specialty tool.

Here's a link to a thread re: the orings. https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...o-rings-96244/

 

None of my wrenches work unfortunately. Someone told me it can be done without removing the fan, but after looking at it I started to doubt that. Why I made this post ha

 

I fought that last year. PO used what seemed to be a copious amount of stop leak in the cooling system. Replaced my radiator with a used aftermarket one (Nissens 64029. Risky, I know, but finances were a bit tight. When I removed the old radiator it seemed to weigh a lot.
To remove the fan, have only used a decent sized pair of channel locks. Sometimes had to jam a screwdriver between the water pump bolts. Does the fan spin freely after engine comes up to temp? The bi-metal spring on the fan clutch can get filthy and affect its operation. Or it could just be kaput.
Ended up replacing fan clutch with one for a 2000 Chev Express van 1/2 ton, 4.3l, w/o ac. Had to enlarge the mounting holes a bit with a drill.

 

Ive flushed the coolant a few times, and tried using a cleaner. The original coolant had what appeared to be sand in it. Either a stop leak type product, or buildup. I’m sure the radiator is clogged, even though clean water comes out when trying to flush.

I like the idea of having metal end tanks, and plan on taking it to have rodded. Hopefully it’s not too far gone.

 

Yep, same experience.
Infrared thermometer showed that lower left of radiator was only about 115° f when Ultragauge showed 200° +. Water pump was good.

 

A new core is not out of the question for these old rads.

A cheap 36mm fan clutch wrench is a handy thing to have in the tool box/bag. Put the wrench on and give the back end a shot with a hammer toward the passenger side of the vehicle (NAS).

When you put it back on, use some anti-seize on the thread.

 

I have used the gorilla method of large channel locks to remove the fan - wear gloves haha - make sure your loosening it the correct direction.
my nisson rad has held up for years now.
def make sure your fan clutch is good
I have removed the rad several times - I couldnt imagine being able to leave the fan in place.