ok according to my rave manual the headlight switch is a white 7 wire connector and it has the following wires: pin 1-blue, pin 2-blue/red, pin 3-brown/green, pin 4-red, pin 5-blue/white, pin 6-brown/purple, and pin 7-purple/orange. this plug should be plugged into the headlight switch and can be accessed by removing the steering column shroud (clamshell) if this is correct continue, if not let me know what is there. The 2 wires we are dealing with for testing are the brown/green input wire at pin 3 and the red output wire at pin 4. the brown/green wire at pin 3 gets its power from fuse #2 (20A) UNDER THE HOOD (double check this fuse first) if this fuse is good and there is 12 volts on this wire at the white 7 pin plug (at the switch) then turn the switch on and test for power at the red wire in pin 4 (test it in the first and second position). If you have power on this red wire when the switch is on then your switch is working, if not then the problem is in the switch.
If after testing the switch you have determined this is where your problem is let me know and I will tell you how to fix it with a relay.

 

Check the PLUG (from the harness in the dash) that plugs to the back of the headlight/blinker switch. Inside the plug the female terminals on mine were loose (not snug on the male), causing small shorts that eventually killed the switch itself. It took me 3 switches before I figured it out. Get a small screwdriver or something between the plastic plug and the female connector to crush it down.. this way it's snug on the male end in the switch assembly on the column. Mines been good for a year now. Before, I was going through a switch every 3 months. COLD weather makes it worse too...

Hope this helps (if you have the same issue).

Justin

 

ok i took it apart and it looks burnt around the brown wire on the connector.. im gonna go test them shortly,..

 

Looks burnt is never a good condition with electrical components.Don't ignore that, try to find why it looks burnt or you may be in for an unexpected surprise.

 

fortunately the switch literally sits between 2 fuses, so having a campfire in your dash is most likely not a big threat although there is always that small chance that something could happen from arcing, anyways I have seen before that people wire additional lights to these circuits drawing more power through the switch than what it is originally designed for, and the weakest point in the circuit is going to get the hottest (usually this is a fuse but if the connector is a little loose this could cause your problem). I would suggest trying to tighten up that pin on the connector, you may want to see if a spade connector will fit on the pin on the switch side and just replace the one brown wire that is bad, if not it may require a bit more effort to fix. And if you decide you cant fix it, you can still use the relay as this will still work. (you will just need to cut the wire going to the switch)

 

Mine looked the same. It will test good; it's the connection that is causing the burning. Since it's not tight, it will keep shorting and sparking in the connector. I just crimped the female end so it fits tight and the problem is gone. Not sure how long before it loosens again though.