Death Wobble for Dummies
I purchased some 10 ply 3057016 tires and took them to a Firestone shop to install them. After which I have had this wobble in the steering between 45 and 55 mph. Today I blew a tire in the M3 and I only let 1 particular shop work on the tires.
After resolving the M's issue I asked the mechanic to drive the Rover after describing the wobble. Mind you the wobble only appeared AFTER I changed from a 2457516 BFG KO to the current set. He came back and said feels like the tires. I had already had them balanced twice at other tire stores. They put it on the rack and told me to come look. The center of the tread was not level with the rest of the tread. They just said that's odd. They balanced them again and showed me that they were zeroed. Not a balance problem.
I called the place where I ordered the tires. They said sounds like inflation issue. Asked me how much air was in them. My dumb *** just looked puzzled. I mean you would think that tire stores know how much air to put in tires. Apparently they look for original equipment specs, not read the sidewall!
So I go and check the pressure: 35 PSI all 5. Max pressure on this particular tire is 65 PSI! Cranked up the compressor when I got home and pumped them up to 60 PSI. Test drove. No more wobble! It is a bot more bumpy to be expected but even turning is more effortless not to mention the gas I have been wasting.
I get the lower pressure for wheeling but this is my work truck. Lots of miles and occasional sand rescues. Pulled another Jeep out of sand today.
Anyway I'm admitting to being a dumb *** for not checking the pressure when I got the new tires. Another lesson learned. Trust no one!
After resolving the M's issue I asked the mechanic to drive the Rover after describing the wobble. Mind you the wobble only appeared AFTER I changed from a 2457516 BFG KO to the current set. He came back and said feels like the tires. I had already had them balanced twice at other tire stores. They put it on the rack and told me to come look. The center of the tread was not level with the rest of the tread. They just said that's odd. They balanced them again and showed me that they were zeroed. Not a balance problem.
I called the place where I ordered the tires. They said sounds like inflation issue. Asked me how much air was in them. My dumb *** just looked puzzled. I mean you would think that tire stores know how much air to put in tires. Apparently they look for original equipment specs, not read the sidewall!
So I go and check the pressure: 35 PSI all 5. Max pressure on this particular tire is 65 PSI! Cranked up the compressor when I got home and pumped them up to 60 PSI. Test drove. No more wobble! It is a bot more bumpy to be expected but even turning is more effortless not to mention the gas I have been wasting.
I get the lower pressure for wheeling but this is my work truck. Lots of miles and occasional sand rescues. Pulled another Jeep out of sand today.
Anyway I'm admitting to being a dumb *** for not checking the pressure when I got the new tires. Another lesson learned. Trust no one!
Read the title! This was a satire of my adventure. Thanks for input.
Mine are E rated also. I started at 60 for test drive. Handles much better.
The most I tried was 55 and I could feel every single bump in the road. I run my tires at 40 and when they heat up they're at about 45. I live in New England though so our road are loaded with pot holes, driving over one of those with 55psi in your tires sends you, your passengers and all of your cargo tumbling Through space for a brief moment or two. If you're gonna run that kind of pressure in your tires ,and have the acces to it, you should really be running nitrogen. It's better for the rubber. Air and co2 deteriorate rubber over time and in high heat conditions tends to try and make its way out through the rubber. A lot of newer vehicles run nitrogen from the factory and almost all aircraft run it in their tires as well
Everyone has their preference, but do remember that the vehicles were engineered to have less PSI in the front tires than the rear tires to correct for over steering issues.
Original psi for original Michelin tires (4-6 ply I believe) was:
26 PSI front
36 PSI rear
I run upgraded 245/75r16 (10 ply) BFG tires with a max PSI of 80 at:
32-34 PSI front
44-46 PSI rear
Drives comfortably, handles well, and isn't too harsh... higher PSI's seem to leave a really harsh ride, and are required for a full load. PSI also relates to the weight of the vehicle.
I had one shop tell me that the OEM specifications were not correct, that the PSI should be equal all around. They told me that the engineers got the measurements wrong.... lol. I just smiled and nodded along.
Original psi for original Michelin tires (4-6 ply I believe) was:
26 PSI front
36 PSI rear
I run upgraded 245/75r16 (10 ply) BFG tires with a max PSI of 80 at:
32-34 PSI front
44-46 PSI rear
Drives comfortably, handles well, and isn't too harsh... higher PSI's seem to leave a really harsh ride, and are required for a full load. PSI also relates to the weight of the vehicle.
I had one shop tell me that the OEM specifications were not correct, that the PSI should be equal all around. They told me that the engineers got the measurements wrong.... lol. I just smiled and nodded along.
Get under the front and tighten all steering bolts connected to the small steer arm, Oil leaks down around the motor can loosen these things very fast. I found Two 19mm bolts that allowed the Arm, track rods (The whole front end!!) at 60 miles to shake like crazy. "TIGHT TEST".
65 Psi!!?? Hahahah thats a God Dam truck tire hahahaha 35-40 more like it.
1997 Discovery 3.9 with road tires cos the wife dose 1000 miles a week!! Had it at 130 klm's with no shake, rattle or roll, love it!!
1997 Discovery 3.9 with road tires cos the wife dose 1000 miles a week!! Had it at 130 klm's with no shake, rattle or roll, love it!!
Last edited by Clint Lambert; Oct 24, 2014 at 05:01 AM. Reason: Forgot my land spec's.
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