Check for power as soon as ignition switch tuned to position 2. No power to pump and fuel pump relay doesn't close. I disassembled another MFS and manually closed the fuel relay and the fuel pump turned on.

Engine cranks with starter but doesn't start or continue to run. Manually closed fuel relay to turn fuel pump on and cranked with starter but no ignition, no spark.

I thought it was a USA model, based on what I was told when I bought it from 2nd owner (original owner from S. Florida). Has an Aussie emblem on grill but thought that could have been added later. Can I confirm country of origin using VIN #? If it was spider related I wouldn't be able to activate starter motor, correct?

 

VIN check using CalVIN indicates assembly location in UK. I suppose this means that the Spider is back in play? See VIN check results below:

SAL Manufacturer code: Land Rover
J Model: NAS Discovery, 200/300 Series
Y Model specification: 49 state emissions, 100in
1 Body type: 5-door, closed (station wagon, hard top)
2 Engine type: 3.9 litre V8 petrol, or 4.0 litre V8 petrol (OBD II)
4 Steering, transmission, GVW: Left-hand drive (LHD), 4-speed automatic, 6000lb
0 Checksum code: checks out ok
W Model year: 1998
A Assembly location: Solihull, UK

 

Nope, ALL Land Rovers are built in the UK! My God, this is gonna be a long dog chasing it's tail thread. "J" code says NAS which stands for North American Specification...........

 

have you checked the ECU , mounted strategically on the rh fenderwell so as to eventually absorb all the moisture and corrosion possible ?.....many of us have had issues with corrosion inside the ecu case.....it's not a big job to remove it and take off the covers to check / dry it out.....if it's wet or corroded....that alone will f-up a lot of things

 

Yep, no Check Engine Light on Dash in Pos III is a big giveaway to a pooped ECU. I believe XcellerGreat there was mention of a another ECU to swap in this lump of a wiring fur ball. Besides checking for corrosion I would be tossing the other one in just to make sure it's NOT an ECU issue.

 

Thanks for the vin info and confirms built to NAS even though not necessarily exported to US originally.
......

 

I already removed and disassembled the ECU. One of the connectors was corroded so I cleaned it it (both M & F) and it looks fine now, though I can't be sure if any pins are missing. The inside looked remarkablly good, IMO. No moisture, no burn marks, no cracked or broken circuits (from what I could tell, though admittedly I'm far from an expert in electric circuits).

It was my understanding that one cannot simply swap out an ECU without having some reprogramming performed. Is this true?

 

Not true, in some cases the IAC needs a reset but they're basically plug-n-play so if you have a spare try it.

 

No spare. I'll have to buy one. I don't suppose there is a way to solicit for one on this forum? I'd feel more comfortable buying one from someone on here than on ebay...

 

Paul Grant or Will Tillery

Paul is; http://stores.ebay.com/Classic-Rovers
classicroverparts@gmail.com
paulgrant@mac.com

Will is; info@rovaguy.com