Before removing the timing chain and sprockets, I set the timing mark on the crank at 12 and the cam at 6. The key on the cam was in the 9 o'clock position. I removed the chain and sprockets, and then removed the camshaft. I replaced my camshaft and turned it so that the key area is at 9 o'clock, just as it was before. I took the new chain and sprockets and lined them up evenly with the old setup and put it back onto the shafts.

Is this the correct way to do it? I'm worried I didn't put the new camshaft in the correct position. The new camshaft sprocket also has its timing mark in a different position as the old one. The old one faced down at 6. The new one is at 3 o'clock, even though the keyhole is at 9 o'clock still. Do I just make a new timing mark with a marker at 6?

I forgot to install the key onto the new cam, hence why it's missing.

 

Are you sure the cam sprocket is facing out and not backside out? I don't see the timing mark. The keyway positions as it sits are correct though. I'd make sure the backside of the cam sprocket isn't the side facing out.

If both are correctly aligned the keyway for the cam is not exactly at 9:00 but one tooth past 9:00. Look at your old cam sprockets alignment mark and where the keyway was when you pulled it off....

 

Yes, the cam sprocket is completely flat with no markings on the other side. Is that the marker, the little raised bit of metal, at the 3 o'clock position? Does this even matter if it's all lined up? I made a mark on the new sprocket at 6.

Looking at it again, you're right, it is one tooth off of 9 o'clock. I was remembering it incorrectly as exactly 9.

Now to just fit this key in the keyway. It's sitting in the freezer now. Would a C clamp or channel locks be okay to use to seat it, protecting the cam and key with small blocks of wood?

 

Once you line up the marks correctly, rotate the engine several times, to make sure that the marks still line up.
This will prevent you from being a tooth off, or give you a chance to see it is incorrect, and set it again.

 

The raised mark is just denoting it's the front side like the "F" on the old one. I use a light 8oz. ball pein to set keys, tap it to set it flat. If you look at the originals pip mark it's offset to the right of center on spoke. I'd scribe a line on the old one, set the new on top using the keyways to align and lay a mark from the old to new. Easy peasy.