Diff making audible noise
Hello there everyone. I just got a 1997 Disco SE
I am new to the website as of today. I have been finding so much useful information on here. I have to admit when I started tearing everything apart to expose the rust I was really at wits end. But I have been renewed with everyones great information on here. I have a couple questions.
*Of course my diff will only go in low and high in the unlocked position, I have to work on getting it locked (thanks to good instructions on here i will be able to)
1st Question:
I was driving the disco at around 10mph trying to get it into lock and it made a weird (bad gear grind noise) noise at the transfer case. It somehow shifted the transfer case into neutral and now it is making an audible beeping noise when it is in neutral a constant beeping. When I shift into low and high unlocked it is fine (only in neutral is makes the noise) is that normal?
2nd Question:
It has a small oil leak somewhere I am not sure yet, the engine is covered in oil caked on for awhile. The gauge reads 208,000 miles I am sure some leaking is normal at the mileage. Sounds as if it is normal all the time.
Question: How can I clean all the oil off to find the leak? Can I spray a bunch of degreaser everywhere? Any help with this would be awesome.
Thanks sorry it is so long and detailed for my first post. I am just super stoked at the project I will post pictures hopefully soon. Happy and proud to be apart of the forum.
Josh (Temperance, MI)
I am new to the website as of today. I have been finding so much useful information on here. I have to admit when I started tearing everything apart to expose the rust I was really at wits end. But I have been renewed with everyones great information on here. I have a couple questions.
*Of course my diff will only go in low and high in the unlocked position, I have to work on getting it locked (thanks to good instructions on here i will be able to)
1st Question:
I was driving the disco at around 10mph trying to get it into lock and it made a weird (bad gear grind noise) noise at the transfer case. It somehow shifted the transfer case into neutral and now it is making an audible beeping noise when it is in neutral a constant beeping. When I shift into low and high unlocked it is fine (only in neutral is makes the noise) is that normal?
2nd Question:
It has a small oil leak somewhere I am not sure yet, the engine is covered in oil caked on for awhile. The gauge reads 208,000 miles I am sure some leaking is normal at the mileage. Sounds as if it is normal all the time.
Question: How can I clean all the oil off to find the leak? Can I spray a bunch of degreaser everywhere? Any help with this would be awesome.
Thanks sorry it is so long and detailed for my first post. I am just super stoked at the project I will post pictures hopefully soon. Happy and proud to be apart of the forum.
Josh (Temperance, MI)
Never shift into a lock gear at 10 MPH, that is a good way to blow your t/case.
The beep is telling you that you are in neutral.
You are going to need to spend a lot of time degreasing your under carriage at a car wash, to find the leak.
The lock issue is from not being shift much, the system is rusted/packed with mud and crap and will need to be cleaned out.
The beep is telling you that you are in neutral.
You are going to need to spend a lot of time degreasing your under carriage at a car wash, to find the leak.
The lock issue is from not being shift much, the system is rusted/packed with mud and crap and will need to be cleaned out.
And if you get too much degreaser on belt and pulleys, they'll keep slipping and you'll have low alternator output and low watwer pump flow. I'm not sure you can every get all the grease off. Many leak around the front crank seal, which throws leaky oil some distance with the radiator fan air flow. Valve covers are famous for leaking (8mm 12 point socket).
Another Michigander, welcome Josh! 5 miles an hour for the tcase, not 10. If you can find a steam cleaner, best method. Simple Green works but you need to let it soak. Your ECM is next to the windshield washer fluid tank and passenger inner fender under a black plastic cover, avoid that area with high pressure direct spray, like at the car wash. Download a free copy of the service manual called the "Rave". It's in Mikes and SB's sig. It helps when getting to know Rover.
Actually when I clean my under carraige and engine compartment, I only use the high pressure cold water rise. As Buzz mentioned, if you have to use degreaser for the hard areas, do not allow it on the wiring especially the connections.
As for the t/case noise, is it still noisy or was it only when you tried shifting?
As for the t/case noise, is it still noisy or was it only when you tried shifting?
Hello everyone!
I did some work at freeing up the diff yesterday. And then lubed the heck out of it. So yes now it goes easily from unlock to lock in both high and low. Now my only question is why does the diff lock light not come on in the dash, could that be a bad fuse?
Loving working on it I am learning a lot. Now to keep working on that rust!
Josh
I did some work at freeing up the diff yesterday. And then lubed the heck out of it. So yes now it goes easily from unlock to lock in both high and low. Now my only question is why does the diff lock light not come on in the dash, could that be a bad fuse?
Loving working on it I am learning a lot. Now to keep working on that rust!
Josh
First are you sure it it is in diff lock? If it is and the light doesn't come on the switch may be stuck from lack of use.
I would suggest you wait till you hit a dirt road, then lock it and drive. If you notice the front wheels bind up a little when doing a full turn left or right you are locked and with time the light will come on. If not, you are not fully locked in the lock position.
I would suggest you wait till you hit a dirt road, then lock it and drive. If you notice the front wheels bind up a little when doing a full turn left or right you are locked and with time the light will come on. If not, you are not fully locked in the lock position.
If you do a search on stuck diff lock or go to the Rovers North webpages you will see a great exploded view of trhe entire shifter linkages and all the parts. The light comes on when the diff lock switch makes contact applying the ground and turning on the light. Mine had also been severely crudded up and I had to replace the diff lock switch to get the light to turn on.
They are correct as far as shifting from high to low and vice versa at 5mph or less and only with the tranny in N; but the lock/unlock function for the center diff should work at any speed and with the tranny in gear or N as long as wheels are not spinning freely.
Always lock the CDL before you get it stuck in mud not after.
They are correct as far as shifting from high to low and vice versa at 5mph or less and only with the tranny in N; but the lock/unlock function for the center diff should work at any speed and with the tranny in gear or N as long as wheels are not spinning freely.
Always lock the CDL before you get it stuck in mud not after.
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