OK, so I have the center console out, wanting to clean and lube the locking diff shifter and check the linkage. And now Im looking at what appear to be rivets around the base (plus a few years worth of crumbs and filth *please excuse).



Can anyone tell me how to get this thing off. short of cutting it out

 

Remove the center console. To do that you need to remove the window switch plate, automatic transmission shifter bezel, remove the mat, unscrew the two screws in the cubby and the two ahead of the transfer case shift ****. While you're there pop out the boot for the tranfer case shifter and unscrew the shifter ****. Depending on the year of your DI you may also have a single screw securing the console down behind the window switch plate. Release the e-brake cable from the handle, point the handle straight up and lift up and out with the console. Before getting too far, reach around and pull the wiring from the lighter assembly.

With the center console out of the way you will now have the ability to drill out the rivets holding the rubber boot in place around the cdl shifter. With the boot and the frame out of the way you can now see down into the linkage assembly.

 

Nevermind, I didn't realize you had the console out already. With that done, just proceed to drilling out the rivets that secure the metal frame and rubber boot around the shifter. You're almost there.

 

Thanks so much for the info. I was pretty sure that is what happens next, but I was still hoping for a magic button, tab, or screw instead. Ive gotten as far as the rivets... not looking forward to that. Think I will use the Dremmel to get those off. Thanks again.

 

Use a drill with a bit that's just about as big as the rivets. It will drill the head of them and you will be able to pop the frame off. When you reassemble use sheetmetal screws to secure the frame and rubber boot in place.

 

The 4 10mm bolts in a rectangle pattern towards the back of the shifter will detach it from the trans. Then follow the round rod shifter linkage to the locking dif nipple, 1/2" socket talkes off a nyloc nut. Hi low linkage is held on with a clevis pin and clip, be careful not to loose the plastic washers on the hi lo selector to shifter linkage joint.

Paul is right, use a drill bit and drill straight down. It'll be fine.

 

Thanks SO much guys! Here is where I am with it: Drilled the rivets out, you were right it was easy except for the two that were under the wiring bundle cuz I didnt want to disturb that too much. But got it off and found a lot of caked on mess.

At first the shifter would move but not without a ton of effort. The diff lock light is on.
I cleaned then cleaned again (with some throttle body cleaner) and then used some penetrating oil spray all over and started working it slowly into everywhere it would go. After about 10 minutes of oiling and working the shifter it now moves very freely to the left and right! Yay! I can feel it go from locked to unlocked N. However the movement up and down is still very stiff and I can not feel it "go in" to either hi or lo unlocked. Going to dig a little further as abran suggested & work on that some more tomorrow.

Oh and thanks for the 411 on the sheetmetal screws. That was my next question. You guys are better than a psychic friend.

 

UPDATE * I think something is wrong.

I got everything freed up, perhaps a bit too much. What I mean is that I can feel my way into all the shifting positions, and it will stay in each of them (before I could push it with much effort into a gear but it would push back out). The problem is that the diff light on the dash doesn't go out to let me know that it is unlocked. AND I can shift thew diff easily even with the transmission in Park. I thought it had to be in Neutral? Any idea what I have done wrong?

 

the diff light can take a while to turn on/off. you can try reversing and then going forward again to get it to disengage/engage. you can shift in and out of lock in gear, it is high/low that should be in neutral. if you can shift that in any gear, your park safety failed but it failed so that you can shift where it normally fails so that you are stuck in whatever gear. if you still have the console out pull that POS safety out. its almost directly under the trans shift lever (you need to pull that too, sorry) and its four bolts holding a cover on, and then you wiggle the little valve out with some force and just re-RTV the cover and bolt it back in. i'd recommend doing it now so everything under there is done and taken care of. make sure you really grease up that tcase linkage and shifter so you never have to do this again.

 

Is the safety the electronic solenoid in the shifter box? If not do you have a pic? I want to disable mine, but not sure what it is.

Thanks.