It would be very unlikely that sliding in to the ditch would damage the wheel bearings, I'm sure they were already loose. When you replace them do it right and replace the cups as well. Don't install new cones in old cups.
Odds are good you'll need 2 new hub seals which you'll have to order via mail unless you have a dealer near you. RTC3511 is the seal of choice if you plan to off-road.

Sliding in to the ditch could have torn your tie rod boot, but it wouldn't have made it loose.

My money is still on the hole got punched in the cover when you hit something in the ditch, and the grinding was a dry bearing. In other words my bet is the diff was fine until you ran it dry. right now the odds are good you only need carrier bearings and maybe pinion bearings. If you don't take care of it soon you'll end with a lot more damage soon.

 

If you are going to do the wheel bearings do yourself a favor and pull the axles (service the swival ***** to) and pull the 3rd member out its not that much more work. Clean and inspect everything in there. I would also run a bead of weld on the inside to, I never had much luck welding these without oil seapin around the welds.

 

So check list:
Wheel bearings (QT. 2 each wheel)
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0055&ppt=C0337
FRONT rear Tie Rod (QT. 1)
FROM OREILLY'S
Hub Seals (QT. 1 each wheel)
http://pqrschool.com/browse.php?u=Oi...LmFzcHg%3D&b=5
Check the differential (for what?)
Swivel ***** (Clean them?)
3rd Member (what is that?)
Cup (do you mean the cup bearing?)
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=281669_0_0_

 

It is apparent to me that you still do not have an understanding of the Discovery CDL and the hi/low transfer case settings. This is my belief from your earlier statement.

The transfer case has high and low settings that are selected by moving the short shifter fore and aft. This can only be accomplished with the Transmission shifter in nuetral if your servo is working correctly.

The CDL is Center Differential Lock and is completely independent of whether the T/C is in high or low. If the shifter linkages are not frozen in place, you are supposed to be able to lock the Center Diff by moving that short shifter to the left at any speed as long as the wheels are not slipping/spinning with no traction. This locks the front and rear diff's together ensuring power to all four corners. It should never be engaged on dry pavement or if you have lost traction and the wheels are spinning freely.

My point was you should have merely moved that short shifter to the left to engage the CDL and you should have been able to pull away. If it would not pull away in high with CDL locked, then shift trans to N and shift T/C to N then Low. Put Tranny back in drive or rev. When you get out of slick conditions move Shifter back toward the passengers side to UNLOCK the CDL.

 

Third member.
http://www.roverlandparts.com/1994-1...ing-front.aspx
Axle shaft front.
http://www.roverlandparts.com/1994-1...leftfront.aspx
Axle shaft rear.
http://www.roverlandparts.com/1994-1...rightrear.aspx
Stub axle, rear.
http://www.roverlandparts.com/1994-1...-leftrear.aspx
Front differential, goes inside the third member.
http://www.roverlandparts.com/1994-1...bly-front.aspx
Complete front axle.
http://www.roverlandparts.com/1996-1...bly-front.aspx

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-342-swivel-ball.aspx

 

I did not know that, that was 4 paragraphs full of wonderful information! Thanks!

 

I talked with Mike, who has been a lot of help since the beginning plus the fact that he is the only person who I have a phone number too, and he said that I should prepare to flatten the wallet. I bought a 4 new wheel bearings, a tie rod for the FRONT rear (the front has two, the rear one, on the left side) Hard for me to explain. Next I plan on buying a 3rd member. Just have to wait 2 weeks so I can afford to buy it. Now how do I determine if my differential is usable or not? I have not taken anything a part because I was going to wait until I get the 3rd member to reinstall. But if I install that, and I have to get the new differential it would kind of be redundant since I would have to take everything apart again right? So get both or 1 at a time?

 

Not too sure about those masterpro bearings. I'd return them and get 4 each (if you're doing both front hubs) of:
Timken SET37, SKF BR37, *** KIT38 or National A37.
Those are all quality bearings.
Each set includes both cone and cup.

Cup is on the left, cone is on the right.


The rod that goes from the steering box to the swivel housing in front of the axle is the drag link.
The one behind the axle that connects the two swivel housings is the track rod. It sounds like you're saying you need one tie rod end for the track rod. You'll need an alignment after replacing it so I'd do both ends at the same time so you only need one alignment.

I can't imagine why you think you need a complete axle housing. At worst I expect all you need is a front diff, but more than likely all you need are two carrier bearings for the diff and maybe pinion bearings.

The two Carrier bearings are #10, pinion bearings are 12 & 21

 

W00t! 3rd Member WITH differential $140! Good? Bad? What Guys?? With the money I saved from that if I buy it (instead of $350 for 3rd + $350 for differential) I will get those Timken!

 

X2 on not Masterpro bearings. I worked at O'Reilly for 7 years, and I know what brands NOT to buy from the number of warranties.