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Disco 1 won't move in gear

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  #11  
Old 01-07-2014, 10:19 AM
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no. you need to open the fill plug and check with a finger or simply add more until it spills out the hole and makes a mess of your shop area.
 
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Old 01-07-2014, 10:47 AM
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hope the t case is not burned up
 
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by WaltNYC
no. you need to open the fill plug and check with a finger or simply add more until it spills out the hole and makes a mess of your shop area.
I'll give it a look-see when I get the chance this weekend.


Originally Posted by TOM R
hope the t case is not burned up
I hope not, either, or it's going to be a quick trip to Craigslist for this royal brick.

Rob
 
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Ghostsoldier
Are you talking about this?




Should it be turned all the way outboard (right)?

Rob
Wrong lever. The correct one that will put the tc in neutral is the High/Low lever (not shown) which is behind the Unlock/Lock lever shown in your pic. It's not uncommon for the High/Low to pop into neutral if the driveline is loaded/unloaded quickly, pot hole, loose mounts, driveline vibration, on and on. I'd say it's better to determine if the High/Low lever is in neutral before this gets stupid. Check the fluid level to know where it's at but if the tc grenades at highway speed you'd hear it. They don't just float to a stop without becoming a gear blender........

High is straight up vertical, Neutral is one notch towards rear at 45 degrees and Low is one more notch to rear and now horizontal.
 

Last edited by ihscouts; 01-07-2014 at 08:11 PM.
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:08 PM
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It would be the shorter, bent lever of the two shown here (behind the longer one)?



Rob
 
  #16  
Old 01-07-2014, 08:14 PM
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lever to the left made from steel round stock
 
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:42 PM
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Yes and the dog ear that the rod attaches to on the tc is what I was referring to. It should move easily as it rotates. If it hasn't been worked in awhile it might be stiff. If the dog ear isn't vertical it's in neutral...... one notch forward (High) or rearward (Low) will engage it. You'll get a positive "click" when it's engaged (detent ball and spring) in any of the three positions. If not it needs to be worked back and forth with a few drops of 10W or thin oil.
 

Last edited by ihscouts; 01-07-2014 at 08:45 PM.
  #18  
Old 01-07-2014, 09:00 PM
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In addition to that you may need to move the drive shafts some to mesh the gears since the trans was run

I believe the gears are in synchronized so may take a little to turn the lever
 
  #19  
Old 01-07-2014, 09:06 PM
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Nah, just put the trans in neutral, parking brake on if need be. It'll mesh just fine in park though, motor off. Mine does......no baby animals harmed in the process.
 
  #20  
Old 01-12-2014, 02:23 PM
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I had a chance to monkey around with the truck today, and I wanted to pass on what I've found.

Never being one to stand on niceties, and since I have big mitts (and am I'm tired of scraping my knuckles off on this @#&%!! truck), I decided to pull the carpet and insulation back, and cut a rectangular hole in the tunnel for ease....I'll cover it with a panel and some screws later, and call it an "user-defined access panel", lol.

Having done so, here's what I see:

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It looks okay, but here's deal: It won't move. To any position. Period. As you can see, I've disconnected the linkage by removing the clip and pin, but no matter what I do (i.e., pry bar, hammer, channel locks, Vice Grips, etc.), the lever will not budge. No detent and ball action whatsoever, like it's frozen or jammed, and even oil won't loosen it.

I also thought that maybe the trans should be in Neutral for it to move, but no dice with that, either.

Any ideas of why it's not shifting, and if this could be part of the problem?

Rob
 


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