The performance of a new aluminum vs an old sludged and stopz leakz coated copper radiator is not going to be an issue. Now at idle or slow and go speed, if some dfference is noticed, it can be addressed by different water pump and/or main fan (bigger moves mo air at idle). The newly "discovered" aluminum radiator may get guys to fix one of their big problems rather than nursing the truck along with lots of cheap fixes. So while new copper is best, new aluminum beats what is in half the trucks, if not more, that are still on the road. And since the D1 rad also fits things like Rovers and Defenders, there must be a market.

 

Well add me to the bought the 232. I will pull mine put in this one and have mine rebuilt. If teh alum is NG then the rebuilt goes in either way the math works.
new alum 232
rebuild 204
total 436
New rad 700
Works for me.

 

I like your logic sir....

 

Tom makes a very good point, the cost of copper has gone way up, so the cost of a large copper core would be higher than previously.

We all want to avoid an overheated engine!

 

Its been 100+ here in Dallas and Ruby cools off great. stuck in traffic on the hwy, i mean stand still at 106 degrees, A/C on, I only saw 215 on the UG. it instantly cools off with a little movement. at 70mph 185-192, my old rad (copper factory) recently rodded (2 years ago) would peak at 219-220. I think what kept the old rad from ccol as well would be the fins. When I installed the new radiator I was very careful so I would not bend the fins etc. I personally think that is very important. rod as much as you like, if the fins are bent I think you are toast.

 

 

This is all very informative. My '96 overheats on many of these California hills even after replacing all my fans. My next step is to flush my radiator. If that doesn't help or does little to stop the overheating, it's good to know that I have several options over the a new factory radiator.

 

I kept my old radiator, I may study up on soldering etc. and see if I can repair the tube that is leaking.

The issue from the radiator shop he said the the tanks were BOWED?
It need to be recored at a cost of 425 dollars?

I dont know where BOWING come from and I cannot see it.

 

Maybe he said "blowed" LOL

 

Follow-up? How's the $232 ebay radiator holding up 6 months later?