Perhaps for some people, but a good crimp connection is just as effective as a good soldered connection (and vice versa). The difference is that it is much more difficult for the average person to make a good soldered connection, and next to impossible to in the field.
Over time soldered connections in vehicles can fatigue due to vibration.
I always make crimped connections because I can do them equally well at home or in the field, and there's no concern at all of the connections failing over time.
I have crimped connections that I've cut open after 10 years under harsh conditions and they look as good as the day made, with bright copper inside.

There's absolutely nothing wrong with a crimped connection if you use quality uninsulated connectors, crimp it well, and cover it with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.

 

Ditto. Most plug type connectors are crimped also. Can't solder everything.

 

hey wanna new disco? Where u guys live? got tax returns? I live on Oregon coast, and have been searching for disco's for sale for awhile, just bought mine in Portland. There was one on Craigslist in Bend (eastern oregon) HAD SAME PROBLEM. Ran fine when jumped. Guy thought some major engine electronics were bad, he was selling his, (04' i believe?) disco II for $1500!! Seriously, even if you don't need another truck, if you could ever find a steal like that, you should ****** it! I would, but just spent 2600 on mine! ('98 4.0 LSE) : (

Seriously, I didn't even think twice about it, because i thought it was something major too, and didn't want a major project! That's ok, i don't like series II disco's anyway, taillights WAY to high, look like Volvo station wagons! Anyways, just thought i'd let u guys know, good to hear you figured out the problem.

 

Well problem solved. I replaced the negative battery cable to no avail. So I went back to testing the battery. Sure enough good charge with voltmeter. Try to start it clicks then nothing. So I take it out and put it on my charger and it reads fully charged. Take it off and test it and it was dead. So I took it back in and it was replaced free under warranty. Must have had a bad cell in it causing it to short out hence the full charge but dead battery problem. Thanks guys.

 

well, at least you know your ground is good!
glad you got it going.
jon

 

a lot of automatic chargers, and modern chargers in general, will read 100% as a default so the charger won't attempt to charge a bad battery and catch your garage/house/truck/goats on fire.

happens at work all the time. Says fine on the charger/battery tender, hook it up to a tester, 80% charge 0% health. won't take a charge, won't crank the bike. Dead cell, bad plates, weak acid, sulfated to death...

 

My wife is glad that the goats are safe, but what about our chickens...

 

So instead of starting a new thread I just wanted to post on here.

I was working on Claire yesterday and I left the top light on over night. Come next morning light is still on. When I put the key in the lights on the dash pop up, but as soon as I try to crank..dud. I hear the relays under my pass side kick panel all clicking into activation but no starter sound. I checked the battery voltage before I left for school (12.47V) and I left it in the garage. I plan on taking a look when I get back but just wanted to post it on here so I can check later when I get on the forum at home for any replies.

 

One of my daughters was playing around with the mid-cabin overhead light once, and it stayed on overnight (she had pushed the button, thinking it was cool; she was 3 at the time). That was all it took to kill my battery dead.

I replaced the battery and it happened again about 6 months later; new-ish battery was fine the next day.

 

So go to autozone with the batter, check it, charge it, stick it back in? I mean I assumed that was the problem but my battery has 12.47V.. last time that happened I had 11V or something. I'm not really worried about this, I'm really sure it's simple haha.