Discovery 1 Mild Trail Build
#1
Discovery 1 Mild Trail Build
Hello everyone! I have been looking at land rovers for many months and stalking this forum reading lots about them, originally I was going to buy a D2 but I ended up with a pretty good deal on a nice D1 v8. Im going to outline my plans for the rig and am looking for some suggestions and opinions on my upgrades, I want to do it with the least number of parts/cost but do it right. It actually came with a new cooling system (rad and hoses) and a 2" lift and 265/75r16 tires, so that was a great start. This thing was pretty clean inside and out with almost no rust at all which made it worth fixing all of the stuff that didnt work, it was non running and non stopping when I bought it.
Phase 1: first off I am going over every part of it and replacing a bunch of worn out parts to make it road worthy, it had been sitting for 5 years and needed some attention. New fuel pump, new brake lines (going with the nickel copper rust proof ones), new brake pads, repainted calipers, rebuilt the non working calipers, and a bunch of fluid changes and other maintenance on it like door latch adjustment, sunroof leaks, etc. (this is the phase I am still in, windows still wont go down, sunroofs leak, needs new front carpet and headliner, a few seat bolts, new spare tire, door locks dont work, and a few other things)
Next my plan is to drive it for 1000km to make sure its going to stay together and not be a total basket case of a truck, if it survives, then I move to phase 2.
Phase 2: Heres where I have questions for everyone on upgrades, it has a 2" lift and the 32s, seems to me like I need to adjust the bump stops because it looks like it will tear up the fenders without it, so I plan to do this (and maybe add either 1" spring lift spacers or a 1" body lift if I need more room), then I plan rock sliders, front diff guard, new steering stabilizer shock, custom front recovery point, chop front bumper lower valence, replace suspension bushings, totally strip and repaint entire chassis and axles, a few other cosmetic things and so on, and slack up the ABS lines, rebuild driveshaft. This will make the rig capable of doing the mild trails that I want to start out on and make it ready for road trips and camping.
Phase 3: Once I get more serious into it Ill want to take it to places like moab, so Ill throw in a rear detroit locker and HD axleshafts, front truetrac, steering guard, HD tie rod and steering damper relocation.
Heres the stuff im not sure of and need opinions, some people say rebuild the front driveshaft with greaseable u joint, some say I need a new shaft with a 2" (lets, for arguments sake, say I will be going up another inch to a 3" lift), can I just replace the U joint or do I need a new shaft? Also, I know there is lots of talk about thermostats and overheating in the D2, but cant seem to get real answers for the D1 if this is a problem (its a v8), does it require any modifications or can I just buy the OBD2 reader and use that to watch coolant temps? And is a steering guard, HD tie rod and steering damper relocation really necessary for offroading? I dont plan to do anything crazy but I want to make sure I wont get stranded. Is there anything else I need or should have for mild offroading and long term reliability that I havent listed here? I know about maintenance stuff like changing oil, oil filters, coolant, fuel filters, etc, as I am replacing all of this in the first phase, most of those parts will be new or like new.
I will be posting pictures and information I learn as I move along with the build for the enjoyment of others and to spend someone elses money! Thanks everyone for the input!
Picking her up from the previous owner, she was left to die behind a barn after the owner couldnt finish restoring it (he bought it as a project truck and then moved across the province)
Sits nice with the lift and tires.
The interior was dirty, and other than the moldy headliner that I am going to remove its in great shape.
Replacing all of the brake system and flushing new fluid in.
Phase 1: first off I am going over every part of it and replacing a bunch of worn out parts to make it road worthy, it had been sitting for 5 years and needed some attention. New fuel pump, new brake lines (going with the nickel copper rust proof ones), new brake pads, repainted calipers, rebuilt the non working calipers, and a bunch of fluid changes and other maintenance on it like door latch adjustment, sunroof leaks, etc. (this is the phase I am still in, windows still wont go down, sunroofs leak, needs new front carpet and headliner, a few seat bolts, new spare tire, door locks dont work, and a few other things)
Next my plan is to drive it for 1000km to make sure its going to stay together and not be a total basket case of a truck, if it survives, then I move to phase 2.
Phase 2: Heres where I have questions for everyone on upgrades, it has a 2" lift and the 32s, seems to me like I need to adjust the bump stops because it looks like it will tear up the fenders without it, so I plan to do this (and maybe add either 1" spring lift spacers or a 1" body lift if I need more room), then I plan rock sliders, front diff guard, new steering stabilizer shock, custom front recovery point, chop front bumper lower valence, replace suspension bushings, totally strip and repaint entire chassis and axles, a few other cosmetic things and so on, and slack up the ABS lines, rebuild driveshaft. This will make the rig capable of doing the mild trails that I want to start out on and make it ready for road trips and camping.
Phase 3: Once I get more serious into it Ill want to take it to places like moab, so Ill throw in a rear detroit locker and HD axleshafts, front truetrac, steering guard, HD tie rod and steering damper relocation.
Heres the stuff im not sure of and need opinions, some people say rebuild the front driveshaft with greaseable u joint, some say I need a new shaft with a 2" (lets, for arguments sake, say I will be going up another inch to a 3" lift), can I just replace the U joint or do I need a new shaft? Also, I know there is lots of talk about thermostats and overheating in the D2, but cant seem to get real answers for the D1 if this is a problem (its a v8), does it require any modifications or can I just buy the OBD2 reader and use that to watch coolant temps? And is a steering guard, HD tie rod and steering damper relocation really necessary for offroading? I dont plan to do anything crazy but I want to make sure I wont get stranded. Is there anything else I need or should have for mild offroading and long term reliability that I havent listed here? I know about maintenance stuff like changing oil, oil filters, coolant, fuel filters, etc, as I am replacing all of this in the first phase, most of those parts will be new or like new.
I will be posting pictures and information I learn as I move along with the build for the enjoyment of others and to spend someone elses money! Thanks everyone for the input!
Picking her up from the previous owner, she was left to die behind a barn after the owner couldnt finish restoring it (he bought it as a project truck and then moved across the province)
Sits nice with the lift and tires.
The interior was dirty, and other than the moldy headliner that I am going to remove its in great shape.
Replacing all of the brake system and flushing new fluid in.
#4
First, pull up all the carpeting and assess the fitness of the floor boards. Leaky sunroofs have been the death of many a Disco.
Generally it is thought that anything over 2" and you'll need a double cardon front drive shaft.
Over heating...yes, it happens on D1's. Many of the sources have been addressed on your truck. Fan clutch and head gaskets are just about all you have left to do.
I like the bluetooth or wifi OBDII readers with the software on a smart device or phone. OBD Fusion and Torque seem to be leading apps for this function.
Generally it is thought that anything over 2" and you'll need a double cardon front drive shaft.
Over heating...yes, it happens on D1's. Many of the sources have been addressed on your truck. Fan clutch and head gaskets are just about all you have left to do.
I like the bluetooth or wifi OBDII readers with the software on a smart device or phone. OBD Fusion and Torque seem to be leading apps for this function.
#5
First, pull up all the carpeting and assess the fitness of the floor boards. Leaky sunroofs have been the death of many a Disco.
Generally it is thought that anything over 2" and you'll need a double cardon front drive shaft.
Over heating...yes, it happens on D1's. Many of the sources have been addressed on your truck. Fan clutch and head gaskets are just about all you have left to do.
I like the bluetooth or wifi OBDII readers with the software on a smart device or phone. OBD Fusion and Torque seem to be leading apps for this function.
Generally it is thought that anything over 2" and you'll need a double cardon front drive shaft.
Over heating...yes, it happens on D1's. Many of the sources have been addressed on your truck. Fan clutch and head gaskets are just about all you have left to do.
I like the bluetooth or wifi OBDII readers with the software on a smart device or phone. OBD Fusion and Torque seem to be leading apps for this function.
There is a little rust on the floorboards from what I can see, but I will be pulling up the carpets to assess. It hasnt rusted through to underneath yet, so that seems like a good sign to me. And yes I got a bluetooth one and will be buying the torque pro app. And so if I stick with a 2" I will be fine with just rebuilding to stock driveshaft and will not need a double cardan? And ill keep the fan clutch and head gaskets in mind for future, thanks!
#6
Keep in mind this is a 22 year old Land Rover with a pig for a motor. How many miles are on it now? What you have outlined in phase 2 and 3 will add a lot of weight plus whatever gear and passengers you have. These trucks will do any “mild” trail with a 2 inch suspension lift, the right tires, and right driver. Get the motor worked out completely (as you stated) before dumping a ton into it. With that said, post pictures along the way! Congrats!
#7
Keep in mind this is a 22 year old Land Rover with a pig for a motor. How many miles are on it now? What you have outlined in phase 2 and 3 will add a lot of weight plus whatever gear and passengers you have. These trucks will do any “mild” trail with a 2 inch suspension lift, the right tires, and right driver. Get the motor worked out completely (as you stated) before dumping a ton into it. With that said, post pictures along the way! Congrats!
#8
#9
I was afraid of that answer. Ill probably do the upgrade to the greaseable since its not very expensive and try to stick to 2" and not go up to 3.
#10
As to the driveshaft, I have been running a 2in lift with 32's for 2 years now with no issues. Just greased mine the other day and saw nothing wrong.
As to cooling, get an alternate temp thermostat. Go through the cooling system, have the radiator re-cored, and put on a heavy duty fan clutch. I run around 180-188 in the Alabama summers.
1 in Body lift would work just fine, keeps you from needing castor corrected arms and the like.
As to the non-rust, pull the carpet and check the front floorboards. Where the front Mud flap brackets mount, they like to rust.
Scrap the bluetooth odb2 idea and just get an ultragauge. I hated having to open torque or a similar app, connect and keep my phone there to watch temps.
As to cooling, get an alternate temp thermostat. Go through the cooling system, have the radiator re-cored, and put on a heavy duty fan clutch. I run around 180-188 in the Alabama summers.
1 in Body lift would work just fine, keeps you from needing castor corrected arms and the like.
As to the non-rust, pull the carpet and check the front floorboards. Where the front Mud flap brackets mount, they like to rust.
Scrap the bluetooth odb2 idea and just get an ultragauge. I hated having to open torque or a similar app, connect and keep my phone there to watch temps.