I recently tackled a water leak & wet floor mats (turned out to be a poor windshield install by Safelite) But during this process, I kept adding things to the To-Do List. I repaired the rusty front mudflap brackets in the front floor, removed & had the headliner reupholstered, fixed the rust around the alpine window & replaced the seals & added sound deadening & insulation materail. I only really documented the last one but if you have questions about the others, I can provide more info.

I followed this youtube video as a guide to my install:
Materials Used:

• Noico 80mil Buytl Rubber Mat
  Noico 80mil Buytl Rubber Mat
• Siless 4mm Closed Cell Foam
  Siless 4mm Closed Cell Foam
• Noico Metal Roller
  Noico Metal Roller

Materials Used


I already had the headliner & some interior pieces removed so I just removed the remaining pieces. I didn't follow a guide but everything was pretty obvious how to remove it, and i made sure to keep all removed hardware & parts together & labeled for ease of reassembly.

I removed all the seats, the side plastic trim pieces, the carpets (except around the center console), the existing foam & rubber sound deadening, all the door panels (except the rear door), and the headliner.

Once I had everything out, I thoroughly vacuumed & cleaned the metal surfaces in prep for the first layer which has to be the Noico Butyl Rubber Mat. This layer is for sound/vibration absorption, so you do not need 100% surface coverage, but as long as you have the majority of the panel covered, it will do its job. When you apply the Butyl Rubber, you need to use the Metal Roller to firmly press the mat down & flatten out the raised areas of the mat. This can be time consuming and I recommend using a knee pad. I used a utility knife to cut out the material around the seat belt mount points & etc, then used those off cuts on the door panels where ever they would fit. I also applied the sound absorption material on the roof.


Rear floor Butyl Rubber


Roof Butyl Rubber

After you install the Butyl Rubber, you can install the Closed Cell Foam. The foam will need to be covering as much area as possible without interfering with reinstallation of interior pieces. The foam also need to be overlapped slightly to keep and sound & temperature sealed out properly. The foam can simply be oppressed in firmly but does not need to rolled in with the metal roller. I used the foam everywhere I could, and needed to buy a second package of the Foam to complete the interior.


Floor Closed Cell Foam


Roof Closed Cell Foam


Door insulation & deadening

Then all you need to do is reinstall the interior. This will be tough because you have added just enough material to make panels tough to get back in. I reused the original foam & rubber mats that were in the floor for extra absorption.

Overall, it made a noticeable difference in road noise and would be worth your time if you had multiple projects to complete like sealing sunroofs, replacing headliner, etc.

Let me know if you have any questions, I have a couple more pics if needed.

 

Nice one! Im in the process of doing this too. Did you consider painting the interior with POR15 or something for rust prevention?

Also, did you spray adhesive to keep the foam down?

 

Here'a photo of the floor rust repair i did. This was the passenger side front footwell and the mounting bracket for the mudflap was rusty, idk if you can zoom in but it is pitted & even worn through on the left corner a little. When i first got the truck it was wet down in the front footwells from blocked AC drains & i cut out the old foam & rubber mat. I just cleaned it up with a wire wheel & used one Rust-Oleum Enamel primer coat & one Rust-Oleum Enamel paint coat. But this was the only place i did that on, the rest of the interior floor was in perfect shape.

The foam has an adhesive backing to it, and you just peel & stick, but it is VERY sticky and you cant really remove it cleanly once stuck, it'll rip & tear. I would press it down initially, then using a microfiber cloth wrapped around my hand, I would press down firmly along the entire piece.

EDIT: my next project is to remove the old undercoating underneath & install a new one; looks like Surface Shield may be the best option

 

Looks Good!
I have interior apart too, and I am interested in the other parts of your project, my windshield and alpine are rusty too!

I recall reading others having problems with leaky windscreens, and faulty replacement jobs.
Is this regular issue for the Discovery, and what's the best practice for removal and reinstalling of windshields?
I'd appreciate links or advice if you've tackled it yourself or gained wisdom on the matter

Same goes for the Alpine windows. I'm planning to scrape, treat with evaporust paste, fill in pits with System 3 metlweld, epoxy prime, touch up with black paint, reinstall, new seals I guess.
My windshield is a bit of an unknown, its rusty on top and the PO said a body shop replaced the glass. I think they did a faulty rust repair and the glass separated where the rust came back but maybe there's more to getting the windshield in right. I'm not a welder, so again I am hoping to treat it like the alpine.

Any solid advice on getting the job done in a way that the windshield does not leak?
I have the bottom finisher only, can I reuse the one I have or is that not advised?
Who here has any good spares or where should I get new ones?

off topic but related: have a aftermarket sunroof, its worn out, broken and likely discontinued (possibly its a Farmont F1000) with a opening aprox 31"x18-3/4, I think this is larger than stock. I hope to get it to close and not leak but I'm at a loss if not!
Who deals in hard to get sunroof parts?
Is there a serviceable alternative, maybe a simpler pop up latch mechanism for fresh air when parked or camping?
Any other Ideas?

I have rust on my front seat footwells, thin metal and at least one pin hole. I plan to do the same treatment as above. I haven't cleaned and inspected under the floor but other than the areas I have mentioned, I have very little rust and the underside of my truck looks good. I think the rust is from leaks in the windshield but also those mudflap brackets look problematic. Same for the factory patches, they seem to leak and retain dampness or let water in or it somehow pools around them. I don't have any rubber on my flaps, just the bracket, my truck has a lift and rockslides and attracts mud.

Is It best to delete mudflaps altogether, if so, how should I plug the holes?
What's a good way to retain the mudflaps but keep it from becoming a rust sandwich?
What are ideas for fortifying this rusty floor? its thinner metal but still has original integrity.

I like the foam, looks like a good price too. I haven't done mine but I have supplies coming. Your post makes me think I ought to take more pictures, and post them!

I ordered "spectrum" sound proof coating; I did the trans tunnel in foil backed butyl and It was annoying and heavy. not sure how the paint will go but I shall try. I think I have to dull the surface of my old coating and that will be tedious, I will test first. I also ordered ceramic microbubbles from hy-tec. I do not know if its a mistake to mix it in the coating. It sounds like this is what other sound deadening coatings do and it adds thermal insulating/blocking properties. If anything I am shortcutting using two different products and making one that does both, for example both Second skin, and lizard skin sell and recommend using two seperate product but I see no reason the two main ingredients cannot be mixed together. Second skin says its thermal product is a combo of both glass and ceramic microbubbles and I have no info on the advantages of combining the two types.

If anyone has input on the viscoelastic coating mixed with micro spheres or related, please tell us!

I orderd half inch neoprene from the foam factory and 1/8 inch polyethelene 2lb if I want to add more padding. These were the two products their website had listed as sound blockers. I will top with 1/8 mass loaded vinyl. I have to say, I have no Idea what I'm doing, and I will trace what's left of my old mats but I will not reinstall them. They are sponges, up front is toasted (but I left the trans tunnel intact), and my rear is is in decent shape but not as good as it was before I tried getting the smell of 80/90 weight out of it and I think it still smells a little. I think I can reinstall the second row section and use foam elsewhere. I based my estimates on roughly <40sqft. I wonder how well everything will lay down, if I will have to glue anything down, and how the performance is glued or not glued. Plus there is the corrugation of the floor in the back and I think the original mat is formed with it. It seems like your foam product with the adhesive bridges that pretty well, I may have to make filler strips. The stuck down foam looks like it would be better at blocking noise than laying the mats in, but I want to keep mine removeable for future maintenance. Also, does the treatment on the doors stand out in any way?

I got 3/4 open cell to line the roof, I have to figure out an adhesive. I wanted to get 3m thinsulate but its more money and they make a dozen or so products but only a few are readily available and most are too thick. one was about an inch thick but it was another hundred+ bucks. I may get some, it looks versatile, including maybe a good bridge for the floor corrugation. Also its waterproof and one other concept that has eluded me thus far is incorporating drainage into this system. when I was younger I had a couple cars I just removed the floor plugs from because they filled up with water. I dont know if I want to have holes in the bottom of my disco, but a mat with airflow on the very bottom seems like a good Idea. home depot's lifeproof carpet pad has this. The foam is kind of firm and I think its hard to get a small quantity but I like the way its channeled on the bottom for airflow. I've learned "if" something will leak, is better replaced with, "when" something will leak and airflow is key to drying, not sure if this concept is bad for soundproofing though. I also added some thinner open cell foam to my order, for a few extra dollars, I think I'll want it somewhere.

What have you learned in your soundproofing endeavors?
Do you have any thoughts about adhesives and instalation techniques related to soundproofing materials layering?
what are effective ways to bridge the corrugations on the rear without using the old mat?
what are some ideas to incorporate airflow under the mat?

 

Unfortunately, I had the windshield replacement done by Safelite through insurance; the first time Safelite did the replacement, they did a very poor job & there was a ton of wind noise & water would get in around the top seal; they just completed the warranty repair of their initial botch up, and its a night & day difference, so much better now. Both times, all new window seals were required because the old ones must be cut out to replace the windshield; and since Safelite's suppliers dont have the windshield trim pieces available, I had to purchase all the new seals both times & then be reimbursed (heres the kit i bought)

As far as windshield frame clean up & sealing, and the alpine window rust repair; I had a local bodyshop do both of those; that's outside of my DIY capabilities; but here's a guide that I used to familiarize myself with the alpine window rust repair, and its what the body shop did to fix mine

I did do the alpine window & seal install by myself. I bought new seals & new locking strips and kept the same glass; its pretty tedious and can be frustrating but it wasnt that hard to complete

Sunroof wise, I havent had any issues with mine; they both appear to have been sealed up at some point by a previous owner; the front one works totally normally but the rear one was completely sealed up & unplugged; neither one of them leak but I leak tested them when the headliner was out just to be sure

For the mudflaps, I havent seen any details on removing them & plugging them up but I think that would work well; you'd probably have to cut the bolts/rivets out of the floor; my floor was not rusty, just the bracket, but I think the proper way would be to cut out the rusty sections & weld in a new section & paint it

The vinyl rubber & foam on the doors does not interfere with the panels fitting properly, and it definitely made them much more solid sounding when shutting them; I added butyl rubber on the inside & outside, & foam on the inside only

3M adhesives have been my go to & havent had any issues; I just used their double sided automotive adhesive tape to replace the side rear spoiler sections on my MK7 Golf R, and it has held up very well (triple digit speeds); the adhesive backing on the two products I used worked great too

Bridging the gaps with the foam was a little tricky but I bought the Siless one which came in one long roll instead of individual sheets, so i was able to measure the area i wanted to cdover & then cut it to fit; and I made sure to add extra to overlap or to follow the contour of the floor

Im not sure on the airflow to the carpets thing, I didnt come across anything about that in all my searching

Hope I could help answer your questions