Discovery I Brake Job
Discovery I Brake Job
I am considering replacing all 4 rotors and pads on my 1999 Discovery I. Any recommendations for a source of parts? And suggestions for a successful outcome? The rotors are at 12mm and have some warping. The right front axle seal appears to be leaking as well so I plan to replace the seals.
Baja
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 7
From: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
To replace the rotors, you have to pull the hubs. So be prepared to possibly replace all the wheel bearings as well as the seals my friend. There are lots of write-ups on the web about doing this. You will at least need to service the wheel bearings if not replace them.
Look at Rovers North Website and you will see all the parts involved. I used their rotor and pad sets as well as their ProLine Calipers on my rear axle as my rotors were badly corroded.
A also bought new caliper mounting bolts from them as mine werwe also in pretty bad condition. And their "fixing kit" which copntains all new springs and all the little pieces needed to redo the pads. That was about 4 years ago and my pads and rotors are still in great shape. Their kit is about 100 bucks per axle. I had purchased a set of new bearings for the rear axle, but mine were in good shape so I just repacked them and still have the bearings on the shelf for future use.
There is a large nut you have to remove, they and several others sell an adapter for removing the nut. You should drain and replace the brake fluid as well if it is not really clean. A turkey baster works well to suck out the oid fluid from the reservoir.
Be sure and bleed the air out when you finish to have a firm pedal.
Look at Rovers North Website and you will see all the parts involved. I used their rotor and pad sets as well as their ProLine Calipers on my rear axle as my rotors were badly corroded.
A also bought new caliper mounting bolts from them as mine werwe also in pretty bad condition. And their "fixing kit" which copntains all new springs and all the little pieces needed to redo the pads. That was about 4 years ago and my pads and rotors are still in great shape. Their kit is about 100 bucks per axle. I had purchased a set of new bearings for the rear axle, but mine were in good shape so I just repacked them and still have the bearings on the shelf for future use.
There is a large nut you have to remove, they and several others sell an adapter for removing the nut. You should drain and replace the brake fluid as well if it is not really clean. A turkey baster works well to suck out the oid fluid from the reservoir.
Be sure and bleed the air out when you finish to have a firm pedal.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 916
Likes: 1
From: Quarryville, Pa
Hardest part of the job is getting the old hub out of old rotor, nothing a brass BFH and a few blocks of wood wont take care of. Just make sure you clean the face of the old hub real good and use some antiseize before you install them on the new rotor.
Baja
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 52
From: Georgia, USA
I've had good results from Wagner from O'Reilly Auto Parts, though Amazon is actually cheaper.
Hub bearings are available locally, Timken SET37, SKF BR37, *** KIT38 or National A-37.
If you off-road use hub seal RTC3511
While the front caliper is off remove the bracket for the flex hose and slot it, so you don't have to break open the brakes next time you replace the rotor, hub seal or service the bearings.
If you do them all in the right order you can use a front drive member to recess the seal the correct 4mm
x2 on the Never-Seez on the hub if you have the rotor off.
Caliper bolts take Loctite 270
If you don't have a bearing packer a needle grease gun adapter works well for making sure you get grease in between the bearing rollers.
Then coat the outside well.
Hub bearings are available locally, Timken SET37, SKF BR37, *** KIT38 or National A-37.
If you off-road use hub seal RTC3511
While the front caliper is off remove the bracket for the flex hose and slot it, so you don't have to break open the brakes next time you replace the rotor, hub seal or service the bearings.
If you do them all in the right order you can use a front drive member to recess the seal the correct 4mm
x2 on the Never-Seez on the hub if you have the rotor off.
Caliper bolts take Loctite 270
If you don't have a bearing packer a needle grease gun adapter works well for making sure you get grease in between the bearing rollers.
Then coat the outside well.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,079
Likes: 227
From: IL
Buy a $5 bearing packers.
The kits from AB are great. They come with new rotors, pads, pad hardware, washers, seals, etc. Last time I checked they were $240 and about $300. You'll also want s pair of snap ring pliers. An impact gun makes getting the bolts holding the rotors and hub together very easy.
The kits from AB are great. They come with new rotors, pads, pad hardware, washers, seals, etc. Last time I checked they were $240 and about $300. You'll also want s pair of snap ring pliers. An impact gun makes getting the bolts holding the rotors and hub together very easy.
