Thanks for that! Super helpful!

One more question...

1. I purchased the SS braided brake lines... is it possible to only change the front lines for now, and get to the rears in a couple of weeks, or should i tackle the backs at the same time?

Thanks!

 

if you have the time, it would be better to do it all at once. proper bleeding procedure starts at the farthest point from the master then moves to the closest. SO you would start in the rear and move forward. more time efficient to just do it all at once.

 

Just do them all at once and them bleed them once. I got the master cylinder adapter from Power Probe to use with my pressure bleeder. It's 100 times better than the Motive adapter.
Makes bleeding the whole system much easier.
https://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemD...EaAuOBEALw_wcB

 

Getting there... just having issues figuring out the geometry of the new copper nickel brake lines.

Progress!

 

Really dumb question, but to remove the old lines, is it a 10mm flare nut wrench for the proper size so I don't strip the nut?

 

brake line nuts take a 11mm flare nut wrench.

 

If they're old lines and you aren't planning on reusing then, just cut the pipe and use a 6 sided socket. Otherwise a flare nut wrench. 11mm, as noted.

 

I had the conversion done on my D1. Worked much better, but not..great. We decided to remove my ABS completely, NOW, it works, much, much better.

 

With ABS removed the stock brake setup works better too.

 

Agree, my conversion is OK. Better but not what I expected.

When the ABS was removed, did they remove/bypass the pump and configure the ECU such that it won't throw codes?

Any caveats with removing the ABS entirely (e.g. insurance issues, vehicle inspections, etc.)?