Front Bearings
-(4) National #A-37 - Bearings
-(2) #RTC3511 - double lip hubseal

I'm going to do the bearings with my mechanic friend. They're wigglin'

As per the sticky (How to Change Your Front Rotors w/ Wheel Bearings) and Antichrist I'm going to get locally the National Taper Bearing Set - National #A-37. Um, I guess I need 2 per wheel so four total for the front.

I'm going to order 1 double lip hubseal each wheel (RTC3511) so 2 total for the front. I'll get that from AB if they do the right thing on their shipping gouge. They just corrected their mistake so there you go.

I'm going to try and ignore this: Service the swivel *****, reseal, refill and adjust the pre-load

For those of us that have trouble sourcing....any other parts we should just get (ie. spacing washer, hub adjusting net, shim or circlip) while we're ordering to avoid double/triple shipping costs.

Spike, I see you're about to do this. (Congrats by the way). What else you planning on doing while you are in there?

 

Slang,
I did not look at the sticky, but I did mine not long after buying my Disco.
My rear brakes were worse so I did the rear axle first, pretty much relying on Rovers North and their forum to guide me.

They have an excellent write up for doing the Brake job which also includes the wheel bearings as they are only a part of the brake job.

There is also an excellent piece :
http://www.d-90.com/tech/bearing.html
It is a straight forward set of installation instructions for the defender 90 front wheel bearings.

A couple of tools you will need are:
Circlip pliers to remove the little curclip under the dustcap.
2 1/16 or 52 mm socket to remove the nuts that secure the hubs.
13mm 12 point for the caliper bolts
Long Zip-ties to hold calipers out of the way
Possibly a seal puller

As far as items to order to avoid extra shipping, I like to get extras of the cheap items like the paper gaskets, new mounting bolts for the calipers if yours are old and nasty, items like that are usually a specialty item to ensure the right size and grade so I like to use new bolts and nuts and such when redoing something that may be very old and get degraded. Why reassemble with old bolts? Makes next time easier as well.

Another piece I found is:
4x4Wire - Land Rover Discovery Front Wheel Bearing Service

I would go ahead and redo the grease in those front swivels as well, you do not want to ignore those, youi can ruin those big shiny ***** inside the front tires if you ifnore them!

When you put the new bearings in, realize the first time you tighten them is to seat them, then you back it off and just barely snug it back down. Too tight and you will burn them up!

Have Fun Brother!

 

What shape are your rotors in?

 

The manual says to replace the lock tab and the drive flange gasket. You can usually get away with re-using the lock tab at least once if you're careful about straightening it out. As for the drive flange gasket, while I personally prefer to use the paper gasket, RTV, Right-Stuff, Ultra-Black probably works just as well.

 

Good practice to keep a spare set on hand as well.

 

PT,

What is your opinion on the torquing upon completion? I had purchased one of the "adapters" instead of a true socket, so no way to use it with a torque wrench.

I had to go completely by "feel" which was a total guess.

 

I tend to follow the factory service manual, 60 N-M, back off 90'. tighten to what, 5 N-M and add the second nut.
I do tend to prefer to be just a tad snug to allow for wear, but then, if you go too far, heat can be an issue.

An age-old question!

 

I'm sure this has ever been asked before, but is there a non-oem double-lip seal that can be purchased at an old-fashioned parts store? Does anyone know the part#?

 

has been asked before and i looked and looked so i say no.

as for all the other stuff danny and pt offered, my heads swimming so i need to get it around it. thanks for all that.

right now i'm not seeing anything about paper gaskets and the swivel greasing is something i need to do for sure.

rotors are supposed to be good...tested last summer but i'd like to double check that.

i'd like to do this all in one order but i just don't see that happening. no what i mean chris-bob?

 

Slang,

Definitely look at your brake rotors before you pull the trigger because if you only do the bearings and then have to do the rotors, you will be pulling it apart twice my friend. If you want to see the rotors I used it was the ProLine for $110 per axle.
Land Rover Discovery I Brake Kits Available from RoversNorth.com

This page shows all the goodies required for the front hubs. That is why I prefer RN over AB. The illustrations alone make it much simpler.
Land Rover Discovery I Drivetrain Hub Assembly Parts Available from RoversNorth.com
Item 2 is the paper drive flange gasket I spoke of and item 5 is the lock washer that you bend the tabs over to secure upon completion that PT brought up. Your double lipped seal would take the place of item 6. Realize this drawing shows how the parts stack up (assembly orientation).
Item 3 -two each per wheel are the nuts that are 2 1/16 inches (pretty damn big). To be able to correctly torque them lke PT says he does requires a regular socket that will fit a torque wrench, not the adapter they sell.

If the swivel ball is leaking here is a kit for it:
Land Rover Discovery I Drivetrain Swivel Ball Parts Available from RoversNorth.com

As far as your head spinning may I suggest you print out the write-ups that I referenced up above and you can use to guide you thru the step by step procedures instead of trying to remember or do it from a screen. I prefer that printout to go by, especially first time thru or if it has been a while. I did a few years of work developing work instructions for the Cruise Missile program, that I just find it second nature to refer to a good printout. Makes a great record later in keeping track of what you did or tried to do.

Coffee and Rum are both in serious need of resupply here at Bridges Manor.