Stefan-if you have any confidence left in me, I probably have all of the parts necessary in stock and can send them you via USPS now that their worthless website is somewhat working again.

Be aware everyone that the lock tabs, even genuine Land Rover often fit poorly requiring a little work with a file on the inside flat to make them fit. I was astounded several years ago when I encountered this on OE parts and have since found ti to be ubiquitous across almost all manufacturers.

W/R/T torquing to the bearings, basically, one wants to pre-load the bearing to take up any lash and then back the nut off slightly and then just snug it up. Given the HUGE size of the wheel bearings in Rovers, they are very forgiving. I have set them up, driven long distances (1500 miles+) and found one bearing very loose. I tightened it up in a parking lot of a Napa and drove home another 500 miles and have been driving on the same set of bearings since then and that was in 2005. I installed the new bearings as a preventive step at about 204K miles and the bearing removed could probably have gone the rest of the life of the truck.

When I saw more DIs and RRCs in the shop, it was either that the bearings were fine at 150K or 200K, or they'd failed before hitting 100K. Early failure is almost always attributable to water ingress from seal failure, rather than direct wear.

The same truck that went 204K on the original bearings, I somehow apparently bent the rear axle housing as it would begin to leak gear oil from the right hub on a regular and nearly anticipatable rate. I was always able to catch it in time, replace the seal, pack the bearings and continue on. From '01 to '03, I commuted 98 miles minimum daily with that truck with no problems from the bearings. Really, other than one time a screw fell out of the distributor, those 100K+ miles were pretty trouble free.

If one has the time and idle curiosity, there are several bearing companies that provide some interesting discussions on the various ways that bearings fail, how, and why. Yeah, I'm a nerd.

 

Since it's so hard for you to get parts I'd order at least one or two extra just in case.
If you're planning on replacing 2 seals, get 3 (though if it were me I'd get at least 5 and do the rears also).
One or two lock tabs in case you can't reuse yours. I find most go on ok, but if you have to remove them to re-tighten the nut they have to be exactly square with the stub axle to get out.

If you don't have a torque wrench or socket that accepts one, there is an end float spec you can use, 0.010mm. Of course that assume you have a dial indicator.

I use Hylomar and paper gaskets, though years ago I used the non-hardening permatex with ok results.

 

Stefan,

All excellent advice. I bought the flared adapter instead of a true socket, so I could not use a torque wrench but I developed a feel, realizing not to overtighten the nut. Just make sure you have something that fits it well.

And there was some info about using a removed wheel as a holder (if you do have to replace rotors) when un unbolt the two.

Tom had earlier advice about using Never Seize as well. Often times if the wheels have not been removed for a long time, they will tend to seize on the vehicle. I have read many horror stories about "mechanic" having to beat them off with massive hammers and such. I always get concerned when someone resorts to those methods.

One thing that concerned me was removing the old raceways and installing new ones, sine mine were good and I only repacked and reused them, I did not have to replace those. With new bearings you have to beat the old ones out and put new ones in, which you need to avoid damaging the interior of the hub when removing the old race. They say use a brass drift, if you can find one of those. The other guys may have tips for you on that, I don't.


We all learn thru the trials and tribulations of others. Thanks for teaching me so much!

I love that new Mann Filter and the difference the Rotella made is noticeable as well. Stefan had tried this and so did I.

If any of you have not seen the videos this guy has on UTUBE, you should:
http://www.youtube.com/user/PhilSher...8GQcVeWhJq8Iuv

If I can only get rid of that pesky P1316.

 

Danny - open attachment and start reading on page 13 - 17 about 1316, misfire above 15%...

Slang - I bought a pack of brass drift pins to knock things around with at auto parts store in blister pack aisle (Auto Zone or Advance). Handy to have. And don't skimp on how much grease you put in those bearings, pack it in. If your hands come out clean after a wheel bearing job, you missed something...

 

PT,

Several months ago I asked/challenged AB to do the Forum Members a deal giving Forum members a discount or some other incentive to buy from them since so many of us all need pretty much the same items from time to time and we could all use a good deal. They took several months then responded with a "Contest" where they asked the general public to submit pictures of their LR and they would have a drawing and award "One Lucky Member" a 25 dollar gift certificate, claiming that it would become a regular thing. It never did.

I would like to take this opportunity to invite you to put together package deals on things like a complete bearing servicing package and similar other "package deals" where you could supply everything needed for the tasks that we all need to do from time to time.

I believe this could be a good thing for all parties involved as this would provide members with the best deal available on the correct parts from a trusted source and possibly increase your sales as well by providing such a good service to the Forum Members.

What do you say to that, sir?

I know that several Forum Members would sincerely appreciate such a service.

 

for sure good advise....just what i was looking for. thanks tom....sava and danny.

pt - pm sent.

had a great day as i learn more and more about this truck. really rewarding. peas.

 

Sava'

I reread it a few times, I am wondering what actually detects the misfire condition? Could that be at fault?

Earlier advice suggested the Charcoal Cannister could come into play, but after reading the attachment, It does not appear to unless that is a vacumn leak possibly. I was thinking about capping off the lines from the cannister to the intake.

I am unsure now what to do next in trying to resolve it.

PT, you got any advice for P1316 faults?

 

After reading practically the whole document, I am leaning toward my O2 sensors contributing to my problem.

When I read live data the response times look way out of whack. Even though I get no O2 Codes.

 

Then I'll do the rears also and get extras all around.

I've been thinking it's time to get the torque wrench too...I ordered one from Harbour Freight but lost out when the system dropped me due to a PR error. Should I get a 3/8 or 1/2. I saw a 1/2 today and it looked huge. I don't even know what a dial indicator is yet.

 

Slang,
There was a torque wrench that kept showing up in pop-up ads on here that looked like a good one. Often Harbor Freight tools are junk.

I bought a basic torque wrench at Sears, but it uses a "needle" that deflects when you are torquing and you read the value that it deflects to off a little scale. Very basic, not real accurate or durable either.

The better grade of Torque Wrench, you set the desired value and tighten until it "clicks" indicating you reached the correct torque. A torque wrench basically prevents you from stripping or damaging from overtightening a bolt and also ensures you do not leave it too loose as well. Without using a torque wrench, you are going by instinct and feel and hoping not to break something.

My cousin who does Inspection always jokes, "Tighten until it breaks, then back off a quarter turn".

Save the dial guage for much later lessons.