Dreaded Code P1178 = Overhaul
#23
#24
Not sure the test results equal the conditions you previously stated: won't idle, starts, then dies after a short period, etc. Zero fuel pressure will mean no start.
May want to repeat test, be sure pressure gauge is screwed in firmly, etc. You can also have a paper towel, and depress the test valve manually to see if you get a small quantity of fuel when the truck is not running.
You should be able to hear fuel pump run when you turn on the key before cranking, but it will only run for a few seconds. You should examine the vac line to the fuel pressure regualtor (driver's side fuel rail rear, very short 6 inch line); and check fuses, fuel pump relay, and wiring at the pump (for volts, discolored burnt connector, etc.). And change fuel filter if it appears pump runs but you have no pressure, or low pressure when engine running.
But it would be strange indeed to have zero fuel pressure and be able to get the truck to start at all after maybe one or two times past the point where pump stopped.
And you may have a dead pump now, but they are not cheap, you can buy just the Airtex pump part (under $100) and replace that instead of the whole pump assembly.
May want to repeat test, be sure pressure gauge is screwed in firmly, etc. You can also have a paper towel, and depress the test valve manually to see if you get a small quantity of fuel when the truck is not running.
You should be able to hear fuel pump run when you turn on the key before cranking, but it will only run for a few seconds. You should examine the vac line to the fuel pressure regualtor (driver's side fuel rail rear, very short 6 inch line); and check fuses, fuel pump relay, and wiring at the pump (for volts, discolored burnt connector, etc.). And change fuel filter if it appears pump runs but you have no pressure, or low pressure when engine running.
But it would be strange indeed to have zero fuel pressure and be able to get the truck to start at all after maybe one or two times past the point where pump stopped.
And you may have a dead pump now, but they are not cheap, you can buy just the Airtex pump part (under $100) and replace that instead of the whole pump assembly.
#25
It only did that a couple times. The only times I could keep it running was when I was using carb cleaner. I also held a key on the test valve and there was no fuel coming out. I have examined all vacuum lines and they appear to be good. The only hose that had cracks was the oil vent hose to the side of the intake and I replaced that one.
#27
Well, the old carb cleaner to the rescue. That does make a difference.
Multifunction relay (passenger side under hood) and the inertia switch decide if the fuel pump will run. Start checking there. Here's a page from the RAVE ETM to help you. Check fuse F6 underhood, F7 inside and F3 on satellite panel inside. You should be able to read 12 volt+ on inertia switch to frame when pump is running. Easier to get there than in the cargo compartment.
Multifunction relay (passenger side under hood) and the inertia switch decide if the fuel pump will run. Start checking there. Here's a page from the RAVE ETM to help you. Check fuse F6 underhood, F7 inside and F3 on satellite panel inside. You should be able to read 12 volt+ on inertia switch to frame when pump is running. Easier to get there than in the cargo compartment.