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Engine flush ??????

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  #1  
Old 07-29-2012, 10:41 AM
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Default Engine flush ??????

I am debating doing a full engine flush with the B&G system.
Or should I do several oil changes with a HIGH detergent oil

Need ya'lls input please.
I hope this pic is clear enough.
 
Attached Thumbnails Engine flush ??????-oil.jpg  
  #2  
Old 07-29-2012, 11:21 AM
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Both will help you, niether will hurt you, and the innards will retain that baked on look unless scrubbed with a brush in many cases. By the time you see it at the oil fill cap, it is a lot worse most other places. Baked on varnish does not solvent off easily with something that won't eat up seals.

If it did, you can bet that "mechanic-in-a-jar" would have before an dafter pictures all over TV and the web.

Pix of 190K rockers - Castrol and Rotella frequently serviced

Valley pan (intake had been done cheaply one before)

Heads - not so often on the oil changes

Valley at under 60K - this is what to expect if you are running hot and changing oil when you get around to it

Pickup with sludge and varnish buildup
 
Attached Thumbnails Engine flush ??????-100_0313.jpg   Engine flush ??????-03032011189.jpg   Engine flush ??????-eng-1a.jpg   Engine flush ??????-engine5.jpg   Engine flush ??????-modp_1011_02_o-ilsac_gf5_motor_oil_standard-sludge_buildup.jpg  

  #3  
Old 07-29-2012, 11:24 AM
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more pix - change oil early and often. The oil change interval was selected by the marketting department to make the cost of ownership seem lower. When dealing with sales weasels keep in mind just how large a fib they are willing to tell to make their 2nd mortgage payment. It is not an ethical issue for the pros, but the junior grade ones have to struggle with it. (From a quota busting eight state road warrior raised on Zig Ziglar. It's never too hot to cold call.)

Mom's taxi service, milk runs to 12 errand stops, and extended high temp operation all work on the oil, along with cheap gas, infrequent changes, not changing filter, using cheap filters that stay in bypass mode too long, and watered down oil - all these things help with sludge and varnish formation.
 
Attached Thumbnails Engine flush ??????-100_2422.jpg   Engine flush ??????-d1-reluctor-ring-oil-pan.jpg   Engine flush ??????-d1-crank-bolt-release.jpg  

Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 07-29-2012 at 11:36 AM.
  #4  
Old 07-29-2012, 03:21 PM
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I wouldnt worry about it, Shell Rotella every 5,000 miles and worry about passing your exam's not engine sludge.
If you were having a sludge problem then yes, other wise keep your money in your wallet.
 
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Old 07-29-2012, 04:09 PM
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I agree with Spike, get the degree, get the good job and then you can buy a new motor if you want.

Seriously, just change the oil for now. In order to clean it up proper it's gonna need more than dialysis...
 
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Old 07-29-2012, 09:29 PM
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I agree with Spike as well. Just change it sooner rather than later.
 
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:00 PM
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You can buy a lot of rotella and those 6 dollar Mann Oil Filters and just keep up with the oil changes for what a good flush cost you.

I like to keep a glass jar with some of what I drain just to get a good look at what the used oil looks like. Some people even get an analysis performed.

Plus You can use the used oil to spray on the rusty areas to help preserve them.
 
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:01 PM
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Next oil change, you may want to drop the oil pan and see how bad it is inside, and possibly pull the valve covers and see what the top looks like.
 
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