Engine flush ??????
I am debating doing a full engine flush with the B&G system.
Or should I do several oil changes with a HIGH detergent oil
Need ya'lls input please.
I hope this pic is clear enough.
Or should I do several oil changes with a HIGH detergent oil
Need ya'lls input please.

I hope this pic is clear enough.
Both will help you, niether will hurt you, and the innards will retain that baked on look unless scrubbed with a brush in many cases. By the time you see it at the oil fill cap, it is a lot worse most other places. Baked on varnish does not solvent off easily with something that won't eat up seals.
If it did, you can bet that "mechanic-in-a-jar" would have before an dafter pictures all over TV and the web.
Pix of 190K rockers - Castrol and Rotella frequently serviced
Valley pan (intake had been done cheaply one before)
Heads - not so often on the oil changes
Valley at under 60K - this is what to expect if you are running hot and changing oil when you get around to it
Pickup with sludge and varnish buildup
If it did, you can bet that "mechanic-in-a-jar" would have before an dafter pictures all over TV and the web.
Pix of 190K rockers - Castrol and Rotella frequently serviced
Valley pan (intake had been done cheaply one before)
Heads - not so often on the oil changes
Valley at under 60K - this is what to expect if you are running hot and changing oil when you get around to it
Pickup with sludge and varnish buildup
more pix - change oil early and often. The oil change interval was selected by the marketting department to make the cost of ownership seem lower. When dealing with sales weasels keep in mind just how large a fib they are willing to tell to make their 2nd mortgage payment. It is not an ethical issue for the pros, but the junior grade ones have to struggle with it. (From a quota busting eight state road warrior raised on Zig Ziglar. It's never too hot to cold call.)
Mom's taxi service, milk runs to 12 errand stops, and extended high temp operation all work on the oil, along with cheap gas, infrequent changes, not changing filter, using cheap filters that stay in bypass mode too long, and watered down oil - all these things help with sludge and varnish formation.
Mom's taxi service, milk runs to 12 errand stops, and extended high temp operation all work on the oil, along with cheap gas, infrequent changes, not changing filter, using cheap filters that stay in bypass mode too long, and watered down oil - all these things help with sludge and varnish formation.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Jul 29, 2012 at 11:36 AM.
I wouldnt worry about it, Shell Rotella every 5,000 miles and worry about passing your exam's not engine sludge.
If you were having a sludge problem then yes, other wise keep your money in your wallet.
If you were having a sludge problem then yes, other wise keep your money in your wallet.
I agree with Spike, get the degree, get the good job and then you can buy a new motor if you want.
Seriously, just change the oil for now. In order to clean it up proper it's gonna need more than dialysis...
Seriously, just change the oil for now. In order to clean it up proper it's gonna need more than dialysis...
You can buy a lot of rotella and those 6 dollar Mann Oil Filters and just keep up with the oil changes for what a good flush cost you.
I like to keep a glass jar with some of what I drain just to get a good look at what the used oil looks like. Some people even get an analysis performed.
Plus You can use the used oil to spray on the rusty areas to help preserve them.
I like to keep a glass jar with some of what I drain just to get a good look at what the used oil looks like. Some people even get an analysis performed.
Plus You can use the used oil to spray on the rusty areas to help preserve them.
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