Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

Engine running hot

Old Dec 27, 2011 | 03:16 PM
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Default Engine running hot

My first real problem has reared its ugly head. Today my discovery's temp gauge started to slowly rise and after reading all the post on never over heating it I pulled over quickly. Got it to the shop I work at and the fan clutch is no more. While looking through past posts I saw someone say that the fan clutch setup from a 01 blazer fit. How has this worked out for the people that have done this?
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 03:25 PM
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Any of the Chevy P.U, non A/C, Non H.D. clutches that are the same size work well. Just take your old clutch off and go match it to a new one at the part store.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 07:08 PM
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The part you need is listed in the DI tech section.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 08:41 PM
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MrMetal,

If you were driving at 40 mph or better, it is not just the fan clutch that was making you overheat. Fan only makes a difference stopped or very slow. So check out radiator as well. As stated, the Chevy / GMC clutches are also 6 inch, reverse rotation, and the same thread as our water pump. You will have to modify size of bolt holes on stock Rover fan. If you want to experiment, junkyard has cheap ones (more Chevys than Rovers in junk yards around me). Also good for low dollar emergency no-Rover parts available type repairs (get me home to my shade tree).
 
Attached Thumbnails Engine running hot-p1120218.jpg   Engine running hot-p1120262.jpg   Engine running hot-p1120258.jpg   Engine running hot-p1120268.jpg  
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 09:24 PM
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I used the info from the sticky and got what I needed from NAPA. Also picked up the larger bolts while I was there too.

You can read all about it in my thread:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-clutch-45607/
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 10:49 PM
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Thanks for the info going to pick one up tomorrow after work. As for the over heating it only did it when I got stuck in stop and go traffic. Over 30 the temp would slowly drop. I'am already thinking of getting the radiator cleaned since Its metal and can be rebuilt with a new water pump and thermostat also. Don't really want any problems once I'am out and camping lol.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 07:32 AM
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Indy rad shop can hot acid flush and rod out the copper radiator, usually under $100. Helps a great deal, since previous owner may have used non-distilled water. Well water is worse, due to mineral content.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 09:57 AM
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You guys were right. Got the fan clutch in today at work, let the truck run for a while and just kept checking on the gauge. Slowly buy surly the gauge just keeps climbing slowly and I do mean slowly, Scan tool showed the same thing. Checked for exhaust in the cooling system and nadda. Looks like the radiator is coming out and heading to a shop for some love.

Thanks for all the input guys, helped a ton.
 

Last edited by MrMetal; Dec 28, 2011 at 09:59 AM.
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MrMetal
You guys were right. Got the fan clutch in today at work, let the truck run for a while and just kept checking on the gauge. Slowly buy surly the gauge just keeps climbing slowly and I do mean slowly, Scan tool showed the same thing. Checked for exhaust in the cooling system and nadda. Looks like the radiator is coming out and heading to a shop for some love.

Thanks for all the input guys, helped a ton.
Had the same thing happen to me - new rad fixed her right up.
 
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