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Exhaust question

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  #21  
Old 05-05-2011 | 10:13 AM
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Yes. Well, not exactly yes. The ECM will think the O2 sensor is faulty or running extremely lean. It will not necessarily kill the sensor unless allowed to coat the thing with soot if the problem is not resolved. And you may still resurrect the sensor by burning off the soot with a propane plumbing torch.
 
  #22  
Old 05-05-2011 | 10:41 AM
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Yeah. That's kinda what I'm alluding to. So if I'm sucking in too much air pre sensor it COULD think I'm running lean, dump in more fuel and cause me to ACTUALLY run rich. Sucking up my already terrible mpg's. My hope is that this is the case and I'm not inexplicably mowing through o2 sensors.
 
  #23  
Old 05-07-2011 | 08:46 PM
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Spike. So I got a good look at it today while I was changing my diff oil. From the y pipe flange back is useless. Think the best thing to do is get the muffler I want and take it to a shop and say "please put this (muffler) into this (truck) for as cheap as possible? I think I have to take this exhaust off just for SAFETY's sake. The unions are shot. The hangers are going and I'm afraid it's gonna drop while I'm driving it.
 
  #24  
Old 05-08-2011 | 04:03 PM
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Yeah just cut it off and go to the muffler shop and tell them what you want.
You cannot go to Midas or anything like that, it has to be a small mom and pop muffler shop, Midas will tell you no, you must use our parts and it will cost you $1000.
Look in the Yellow Pages for a shop that does custom exhaust and custom pipe bending.
There are lots of them out there.
 
  #25  
Old 05-08-2011 | 04:11 PM
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That's exactly what I was thinking. The guy who does my inspections has an old school exhaust shop. But those people also told me if I wanted to spend NO money I could buy flexible exhaust hosing at pep boys and run the connections myself. But that's a bad idea right?
 
  #26  
Old 05-08-2011 | 04:38 PM
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The flex tubing that you can buy is cheap beyond all cheap and is meant for a temp fix.
The kind you can buy at a truck stop/repair shop is good stuff but expensive.
Just go to the old school shop, talk to the guys about doing it after hours and bring a pizza and beer and have a good time.
Doing it that way should only cost you parts, pizza and beer.
I have a shop like that that I do work with.
You help, you feed them, and the work is all but free and you make friends.
 
  #27  
Old 05-09-2011 | 08:57 AM
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I figured that was the answer. Just wanted to make sure. Even though Philadelphia is the city of brotherly love idk how much love I'll get from an exhaust shop for pizza and beer. I'll certainly give it a shot. My buddy is giving me the contact info for his exhaust shop his repair shop uses. I'm hoping I can just get them to do minimum what I need for pretty cheap.
Where's a good place to terminate? Should I just turn down under the car right after a hanger?
 
  #28  
Old 05-09-2011 | 11:20 AM
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Also, is there somewhere in the rave that diagrams the bends in the exhaust system? If I wanted to have a shop do this Where would I get the specs for the bends in the system so I'd be sure they got it right? Or is this something a shop doesn't need?
 
  #29  
Old 05-09-2011 | 12:20 PM
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You can just get a bosal bolt in. It will probably cost you $200-$250 for the front muffler, pipe, and rear muffler. Or, I saw just the center muffler at one of the sites for like $85. You could probably just add a turn down.
 
  #30  
Old 05-09-2011 | 12:29 PM
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That's too much mufflage (word? Haha). I wanted to stop the exhaust right after the post cat muffler. I'm not going to put a resonator back on it. So I was gonna buy a dynomax or magnaflow and just ask a shop to throw it in. Think theyd do that and then turn it down or does it have to go back out over the axel?
 


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