Thanks to all who can help, I am learning as I am going, would love any advice.

Had a death wobble that started at 50mph and/or if we hit a bump or concrete to asphalt change. Would have to decrease speed to 35-40mph to stop the wobble, and can increase speed until the next wobble (making highways impossible).

We knew we had an oil leak, but not one that would show anything in our parking spot, but there is residue on parts throughout under the car. Mechanic replaces L and R Valve Cover Gaskets, new breather hose, and oil change/filter. A month later, scrapped together money to replace Center Link - Drag Link Assembly, Track Rod Assembly, and Bushings. Mentions we should also fix Stabilizer Link and have a small leak on Front Crankshaft Seal but we can wait on it (budgeting).

After this fix, I could hit 70mph hitting bumps with no issue. Lasted 1 month.

While working on hood release, noticed a good amount of oil pooling on top of water pump, right side mostly (see attached photo). (Did research, going to have them check the new gaskets and/or valley cover). Mopped it up with a rag and scheduled to go see mechanic the next week. Decided to drive highway, and the death wobble has returned at 40 mph and extremely sensitive. Strange since the day before I had no issues on highway. Checked oil, and we are well below "Add Oil" line (but no oil in flat, level parking spot). Added 1 quart, drove home with wobble, and waiting for appointment.

Looking for advice, with this experience, does it mean the oil leaking on the stabilizer parts is causing our death wobble? If we fix oil leak, and clean off new parts, im hoping the wobble will stop? Or are we in denial...

We also have a power steering pump leak, but we just refill every 3 months.

Thanks

 

The stabilizer doesn't have control over the wobble. If anything it will just mask the issue.

Your power steering pump is probably what keeps causing the issue. Dripping down onto the panhard rod bushings, wearing them out quicker than they should.
You could also have some play in the panhard rod mounting holes (or worn bolts) that's giving you some play as well.

Fix the PS leak, then replace the panhard rod bushings with new rubber ones, and replace the hardware for the panhard rod as well.

 

Swivel *****, or wheel bearings can also cause death wobble on a RRC/D90/D1/D110/D130

 

The death wobble can be brought on by several things...
- wheel bearings worn. jack up a wheel, grab the outside of the tire at 12 and 6 positions. if you can wiggle it up and down your bearings are shot.
- improper pre load on swivel ball pin. more technical and a bit involved.
- front upper shock bushings could be shot. Front shocks themselves could be shot.

 

First time I've heard shock bushings. How does this cause a wobble? Is the wobble not side to side play?

 

I had a death wobble. Any bump over 30 MPH was a wild ride. New front shocks and bushings solved it. This was before I began doing my own work so I am not an expert though I have replaced swivel ***** (pitting/leaking) since that time.

 

Here is a cheap and IMHO well worth it upgrade on any RRC/D90/D1. Get a set of D2 front shock towers, then install 95-02 RR front shocks. You totally eliminate those stupid stud style upper shock bushings which love to pogo stick up/down eventually due to bushings failing from the heat of the engine bay. The P38/D2 style are much more robust and no more pogo stick action!

 

Strange as this sounds, I set my tire pressure at 32 PSI instead of the higher pressure the tires are rated for and the vibration went away. cheap easy thing to try ..

This was after I went through the front axle, shocks, bushings etc.

 

Ok, just heard back from mechanic from previous fix. They're thinking timing cover? I am not finding much information on this, but sounds like a big job. Thoughts?

 

Timing cover is a completely separate issue. Not related in any way to the 'death wobble'.

In Rover terms it is called a 'front cover' and it can get 'leaky' (like many things on a Rover of the vintage). Perhaps it is better to start a new thread for the separate issue so that you can get better, more clear, and more useful answers to each problem.