Front brake pads servicing
The front of that hub and back of the wheel both lookk horrendous.
Caliper mounting bolts are not that expensive. You are risking an accident driving it as is. That remaining bolt has seen more than normal stress levels with the other one missing.
I would be concerned about all the work performed by whoever mounted that caliper. Did they torque anything or just tighten it and not very well. Did the same person install those slotted rotors? Have you looked at the other side? What about the rears?
Get that mounted with all new hardware as soon as possible before it comes off completely my friend. You are not the only one trying to maintain one of these beasts on a limited budget you know. Don't be foolish driving it with it unsafe.
Caliper mounting bolts are not that expensive. You are risking an accident driving it as is. That remaining bolt has seen more than normal stress levels with the other one missing.
I would be concerned about all the work performed by whoever mounted that caliper. Did they torque anything or just tighten it and not very well. Did the same person install those slotted rotors? Have you looked at the other side? What about the rears?
Get that mounted with all new hardware as soon as possible before it comes off completely my friend. You are not the only one trying to maintain one of these beasts on a limited budget you know. Don't be foolish driving it with it unsafe.
Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; Jun 3, 2011 at 12:17 AM.
All new bolts, tap to clean the holes, brake parts cleaner, and threadlocker this time.
I would rebuild the hub with new bearings, and throw away that wheel. Have you ever seen a wheel failure?
You can use a steel wire brush to clean up the hub.
When you measure the rotor, you do not measure it to see if it is in spec. You measure it to see if it can be turned and still remain in spec after having been turned.
I would rebuild the hub with new bearings, and throw away that wheel. Have you ever seen a wheel failure?
You can use a steel wire brush to clean up the hub.
When you measure the rotor, you do not measure it to see if it is in spec. You measure it to see if it can be turned and still remain in spec after having been turned.
FYI not that I'm advocating you do just the pads because it's clear you need more work than that. But for future ref you don't need to even take the caliper off. Take the two bolts off, open the brake fluid reservoir, and just pry back the pistons with the pad still in and the caliper still on. Super easy way to compress the pistons and slide the pads out and in. No caliper removal necessary...brah
Yeah ill be replacing all the caliper mounting bolts asap. I haven't checked the other wheel yet, but ill get it done. I may be getting a second job soon... If so ill be back in business in no time flat.
As for the brakes, replace the 2 caliper bolts call it good. Save your money and wait till you have enough to do a complete front end build(brakes, bearings, seals).
As for turning rotors. Unless you can take them to a shop that KNOWS what they are doing, don't bother. I've only seen a couple people turn rotors and drums correctly. Most don't have a clue because they never learned anything about machining principles and basics.(that rules out all auto parts stores and repair facilities that do not have a dedicated machine shop)
Don't spend every dime you earn on this thing. You do need to save money too!
As for the brakes, replace the 2 caliper bolts call it good. Save your money and wait till you have enough to do a complete front end build(brakes, bearings, seals).
As for turning rotors. Unless you can take them to a shop that KNOWS what they are doing, don't bother. I've only seen a couple people turn rotors and drums correctly. Most don't have a clue because they never learned anything about machining principles and basics.(that rules out all auto parts stores and repair facilities that do not have a dedicated machine shop)
As for the brakes, replace the 2 caliper bolts call it good. Save your money and wait till you have enough to do a complete front end build(brakes, bearings, seals).
As for turning rotors. Unless you can take them to a shop that KNOWS what they are doing, don't bother. I've only seen a couple people turn rotors and drums correctly. Most don't have a clue because they never learned anything about machining principles and basics.(that rules out all auto parts stores and repair facilities that do not have a dedicated machine shop)

The only reason why I would not spend to to much money on my current rover is because I know that when I get my beloved disco series 2, I'm gonna have to do all that work all over again. For now I'm fixing the major things so to keep her up and running.
My near goals for my current disco:
0.) Replace all front and back caliper mounting bolts.
1.) Replace the oil pan gasket again(doing it right this time)
2.) Replace the oil pump.
3.) Replace all the tires with premium Yokohama geolandar ats (already have 2)
4.) Replace passenger side fuel line (from filter to engine)
5.) Change all diff and axle fluids and seals if applicable.
6.) Replace hub seals.
7.) Unfreeze locking differentials.
8.) Replace entire ignition coil pack.
9.) Replace engine: valves, mounts, gasket/seals, pistons, etc more to come.
Now if and when I get my disco 2, ill try to sell the disco 1 real cheap or donate it to a dedicated member of this forum or other land rover enthusiast!
It sounds like to me your plans will take a heck of a lot of moola to doola. Then you're going to dump it cheap?
I would get a head start, not put another dime in that decrepit rusty buckt of problems and go ahead and scrap it out now and buy something else. There is aguy here in Pittsburgh trying to sell one running Disco and a second parts Disco for 1800 bucks for both of them. You will spend more than that if you follow your plans.
But do whatever you feel, it's your money after all. At leastt ntil you throw it in that deep hole you currently are driving. You should name it "Money Pit".
Have fun doing it.
I would get a head start, not put another dime in that decrepit rusty buckt of problems and go ahead and scrap it out now and buy something else. There is aguy here in Pittsburgh trying to sell one running Disco and a second parts Disco for 1800 bucks for both of them. You will spend more than that if you follow your plans.
But do whatever you feel, it's your money after all. At leastt ntil you throw it in that deep hole you currently are driving. You should name it "Money Pit".
Have fun doing it.
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