What are the best price and or quality for a double cardon front propshaft?

Mine is vibrating badly at highway speeds off throttle, at 190k I just want to replace it esp after the lift!

 

Tom Woods

 

Don't drive truck, or remove front shaft and engage CDL.... you are at risk of failure and it can put a big hole in the transmission, and there is no rebuild/repair for that, just another transmission. Take the $7,000 you are saving from not having to buy a transmission at the dealer and drive something else until repairs can be made. And buy a lottery ticket, you are more lucky than most....

 

Ok. I appretiate your concern. A propshaft suggestion would be nice.

 

Englewood Driveshaft (my front Tom Wood was repaired and rebuilt there) or Front Range Driveline (my ruined-last-weekend rear GBR is there right now) can rebuilt them. Both are very familiar with Land Rover driveshafts.

 

I was planning on calling Bill at englewood driveshaft on Monday. Just wanted some frame of reference. Keeping in mind I do 4 wheel quite a bit.

 

Tom Woods or Jesse at high angle driveline

 

re: Ok. I appretiate your concern. A propshaft suggestion would be nice.

You are more "in tune" with your truck than many who have ignored these vibrations until things get really bad really quick. The problem seems to be in the unknown time between early detection and failure with severe damage. If considering the DIY route, or outsourcing to a local drive line shop you may want to review Propshaft Rebuild - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum for what's involved, and don't overlook the centering ball (Buy Neapco Double Cardan CV Ball Seat Repair Kit 7-0081NG at Advance Auto Parts).

 

Went and saw Bill at englewood driveshaft today and should have my front propshaft next Tuesday. Bill knows rover propshafts!
I will take pics. Also plan on doing the front wheel bearings.


http://billsenglewooddriveshaft.com/

 

He did a nice job on rebuilding my really old Tom Wood front CV shaft. Little did I know, he found the tube was bent (really glad I didn't just rebuild it at home). The tube was "thin" in his words, so he put in a better tube (and gave it some length since he noticed it wasn't quite long enough for my lift ). He also drilled the CV so that I could now grease it. He was out of stock on the updated CV-to-Disco t-case flange, so I stuck with the adapter for now. He also went with non-greaseable Spicer u-joints for strength (which I really appreciate after exploding a rear greaseable one two weeks ago on the trail).

You'll be pleased!

I just picked up my rear from Front Range Driveline Thursday. He (also named Bill) couldn't believe how badly I had twisted it - he said it was out a good 1/2". After that, he triple checked everything. The CV assembly was good, tube was bad (and it was a .120" wall - I really did a number on it), male slip yoke was OK, female was bad (busted the ears off of it), the u-joint was destroyed, and the axle-side flange was ruined. Since the CV assembly was good, it kept the costs down (which was fine by me!).

I had great experiences with both shops.