I would test the inertia switch itself. It should read very low almost zero ohms across the switch contacts. It is what is called a Normally Closed switch and goes to an Open Circuit (infinity) when it senses a rollover event.

Sounds like yours may be bad.

Most of the modern digital multimeters are protected against damage if set to Ohms and you hit a live circuit. The older ones with a needle type Meter Movement like a Simpson 260 would be wiped out in such a case.

It sounds to me that you have a prtty significant leakage condition if you are getting voltage at the switch with key off.

 

Testing the switch for continuity is a good idea. Probably shoulda been one of the first things I did!



Is "leakage" when a positive wire gets grounded?

 

The best thing I can think of is to go to the RAVE Electrical and basically identify each and every segment of the circuit, also referred to as nodes.

Sketch this on paper as a line drawing with from to , showing each connection in the entire circuit. Then go to the vehicle with paper in hand and meter each individual segment with the key off. Verify the continuity of each individual leg of the circuit with the meter on ohms, one probe at each end of the segment. Readings should be very close to zero ohms. While you are on that segment, leave one probe on the wire conductor and place the other probe on a grounded surface such as the frame or block or a metal portion of the body. This reading should be infinity/open circuit/however you meter shows that. This will verify the absence of a short. If you get zero or some measure of resistance like 200 ohms say, that shows a shorted condition.

That is just a basic method of electrical troubleshooting in a straight forward segment by segment approach. This will either show a problem or the absence of a problem in that segment of the circuit.

Land Rover also has reported incidents of contacts backing out of the plastic housings for example that can lead to intermittent connections rsulting in increased resistance and therefore reduced voltages. This is documented in the TSB and Recall tab of the page header.

I hope you find this helpful. Anyone else please feel free to make whatever commentary you feel motivated to supply.

I am trying to be a kinder, gentler RedNeck In A Rover than what I have exhibited in the past as I have fully embraced a more serene approach to life. Be one with your Rover my sons.

 

Leakage is an alternative path to ground other than the intended circuit.

A good example is a corrosive buildup that provides an unintended path. This will usually do a slow drain on your battery. You could also have some added resistance where you should have continuity due to contamination or a backed out pin that still provides a path but at an increased resistance.

These things are learned by practical experience with equipment and usually are not taught in a classroom environment that focuses on theory.

I recall one young engineer telling me that he had verified every circuit on the schematic and that the missile could not possibly have a problem based upon his efforts, that the test set must be wrong. My reply to him was that as far as I knew the schematic merely shows the intended circuits and that faults are not usually depicted on the Fffing schematics. Shortly after that we found the source of the problem in a smashed harness with wires damaged.

 

I had the ETM up on the laptop outside and was about to attempt to do this yesterday before I broke my probe. Thanks for the proper procedure...will be doing this when I get home today.

Lol, sounds like someone got into a stash of herbal remedies

notthattheresanythingwrongwiththat

 

Ya know, I do have a slow drain. I wonder if that is related to current issue...

 

Yes the slow drain and the voltage being present at the fuel pump cutoff switch (or whatever it is called) are basically the same or an interrelated problem. With ignition in the off position it should be zero volts present there.

Do you still have relatives in Hawaii? What ever happened to the pineapple plantation?

I love Hawain Kona and the other sweet herbs and fruits that grow there.

I have seen some pictures of some amazing buds from Hawaii. I wish that was available in nice vacumn sealed bags.

I just received another sweet wedge and have two more putters being shipped currently, one of them is a Mizuno Black Bullseye. I got my first Mizuno Bullseye last week and I love it.

Gotta get out to the course again soon.

 

Ok, right on. Thanks

Most of my moms (i.e. japanese) whole side of the family lives in the state. All her immediate family are all still on maui where I/they grew up.

The last harvest on that farm was sometime in the 80s. They then subdivided it in to 2.5 acre lots cause I think my grandpa needed the money. Apparently he did quite well for himself back in the day (my mom said they had a regular house and a beach house!) but he was too big a fan of Vegas

My parents still live in the original house on top of the hill, but the rest is big-lot-ranch-style-rich-people-burb. Since these are million dollar properties, when people find out where my parents live theyre like, damn, you must be loaded. They dont realize we got in waaaaaaay on the ground floor

Are we talking legal, or illegal variety here? lol

I dont care either way...its just a little ambiguous the way you wrote it.


Haha, you and those damn bullseyes!

Im actually hoping to get a quick 9 in today after work before the rover examination starts.

 

Ok, got it!

Turned out to be the friggin connector on the pump harness. The ground pins on the connector under the wheel well were rusty and not conducting well. Took the skinniest sander I had for the rotary tool and sanded it off. Sprayed that and the other goo plugs with electrical cleaner. Got continuity. Hooked it back up, crossed fingers and bam! Start up! haha

Just wanna thank everyone who posted trying to help. Lots of great information on diagnosing electrical issues here.

On to the oil pan cleanup!

(Im so happy )

 

I had a similar situation on the starter to chassis ground connection. Mine was beyond disassembly so I cut the cable stripped it back and crimped on a big copper lug with a hole. I then took a Dremel deburring bit in my largest drill and took a different spot on the side of the frame member down to bare metal, used a big self-drilling body bolt and made a new ground mount. That resolved my intermittent strter problem.

Did you verify that the voltage at the inertia switch is back to normal?

Speaking of Bullseyes, I was looking at one sight yesterday and found a detailed write-up of the history of the Bullseye Putter and how it was the winner's putter in the 1954 US Open. That started a big surge in Pros playing them and led to Rueter selling the rights to Acushnet which is the mother company of Titleist.

Corey Pavin had his first win on the Senior's tour with his original Bullseye recently. The article told about how Titleist had agreed to stamp Designed By John Reuter Jr. on every one they made, but the first few did not have that. It turns out, a couple of mine fall into that category.

My latest one has "THE FAMOUS GROUSE FINEST SCOTCH WHISKEY painted on the backface and the entire head is painted black. That's the second such Mizuno I bought in the last two weeks. They put great. I will post some pics later.

I think it is very cool that your grandpap had the plantation and that it went to the descendants. That is how it should be. My parents moved off the family farms and now my cousins have all the property.

Glad to asist in heading you in the things and ways to check it out. Just remember, almost every electrical issue is really a mechanical or physical type problem when you get down to what actually caused or accelerated the failure. A lot of techs treat the symptoms and may never get to that true root cause.

Have a wonderful Rovering Day.