So I am a dumb girl, and here's my story:

LOVE my Rover. 1997 Discovery 1. Drove it to Nashville this week and noticed on the highway that between 72-80, it was hesitating a little bit on acceleration. Kind of a miss, for a second, then acceleration would kick in. It felt a bit like that moment before a car backfires, if any of you have had a backfiring car. It lasted just nanoseconds, but I could feel the miss. RPMs stayed steady. A friend just had a trans (I can't say 'tranny' anymore!) so I was a bit worried it was that, and made a mental note to have fluid changed when I got home. (I've checked that fluid before and it smells and feels fine, but it still might be time to change it.) Maaaybe it was having a little pause on acceleration at lower speeds the day I left Nashville, I was starting to get a cold so I might have imagined it, can't say for sure.

Came home to St. Louis with bad bronchitis, exhausted, and wanted to get some SLEEEEP, so drove it on E longer than I ought to have. Got up in the morning, it started fine, went to Target (still E) Wouldn't start in the Target parking lot. Realized at Target that I had lost my (only) credit card, so when I got it started, went back home and looked for credit card. While I searched, it stalled in the driveway (still E). Put in almost a gallon of lawnmower gas, then went and got a fresh gallon. It started again, then stalled for good on my street. Got it pushed into a parking lot, put in two more gallons, won't fire up.

No fewer than FIVE guys insisted on getting in and cranking it, because apparently each one thought some turn of his key would magically fix it. Cranks but doesn't catch.

I plan to get someone to walk down with me and listen for the fuel pump today. It would just be a whirr or any activity they'd be listening for, right?

So I feel like I had a fuel pump symptom on the highway, and a couple tanks of sketchy highway gas never help anything.

I bought a new fuel filter and assume I need a new fuel pump, that I fried it dry. I would LOVE to do this myself, because it looks like a not-too-hard repair (thanks to all the pics and advice I've found here). The plate screws are, or course, a rusty mess. I thought I'd have it towed back up the hill to my place and work on it this week.

I am NOT strong -- I broke my arm last year and that turned out to be blood plasma cancer so my right arm isn't the greatest. But I don't think this repair requires a ton of muscle. I can't get the wheel off myself to change the filter, but I also think since my arms are pretty small, I can change it with the wheel on.

I am hopeless when it comes to electronics. I know that you're supposed to check for voltage on stuff blah blah blah but honestly, I don't know how you do that. I do have a voltmeter but instructions always just say "check for current" and I'm like HOW?!?!?! Now that I'm on sick leave from work, maybe I ought to take an electronics course or something.

I am getting no engine codes or errors.

My q's are:
Do you think my diagnostics seem correct?
Do you think I can do this myself without tons of strength? (Seems like the retaining ring is the only tough spot and that seems more about technique than muscle?)
What's a good replacement pump for this that doesn't cost a fortune?
Given that I want a fairly affordable pump -- had my eye on that $50 one at Amazon referenced in another post (thought that needed a different hose and clamps and I might screw that up??), and also see one at Rovers North for $99
I did throw an Evap code earlier this year, which cleared itself. I'd put a bit of fuel cleaner in hoping it would work and maybe it did.

So that's all I got. Any help greatly appreciated! I'll have it moved someplace Monday morning, when I can bike to a bank and get a replacement credit card. I'd like to move it to my driveway, just about 100 yards from where it is. I can spend the week working on it: I have surgery again Tuesday and I will just be idle and sleepy all week. If you guys think I need to take it to a shop, so be it. Thanks. Please don't clobber me for driving it dry; lesson learned!

 

So I just went an checked on the vehicle.

Fuses look fine, it is a non AE engine.

I am searching all the fuel pump threads for advice about affordable parts.

Located my Schrader valve, not that I'm ready to do anything with it just yet.

...and how is YOUR day?

 

Hearing nothing from the fuel pump when turning the key.

Pressed a bit on the Schrader valve and got gas on the key I used to press it with.

So... fuel pump relay, inertia switch problem, fuel filter clogged and/or fuel pump burned out. Or plugs or ignition wire, but I doubt those.

 

So the fuel pump only runs for a few seconds when you turn the key to Pos II.
Get yourself a test light. Amazon.com: ATD Tools 5513 Heavy-Duty Circuit Tester: Automotive
You clip the claml on a ground source (frame, bolt, mare metal) and stick thw pointy end on/in whatever you want to check dor power. So stick the test light in the plug going to the fuel pump. Tuen the key and RUN back to check if the light is lit. Light ON = power, light OFF = no power.
Go into the drivers side rear wheel arch, up near the frame. There is a connector in the fuel harness up there. Disconnect it and test for power on the side coming from the front of the vehicle.
Try resetting the inertia switch first though.
If you have to pull the fuel pump consider getting one of these to remove the plastic ring.
SPANNER FUEL PUMP LOCKING RING, LRT-19-001, LRT19001, FUEL PUMP TOOL - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
And a new fuel pump seal would be a good idea.
Maybe somebody in the St Louis Land Rover Club could help out?
Saint louis Rover Club

 

thnks! I am not hearing anything from the fuel pump at all. Thanks much for the reading how-to.

'Plug going to fuel pump' -- would that be the female electrical connector that joins to the pump itself?

 

Yes. There are a few pins in there, I can't recall which one is supposed to be power.

 

The white purple wire is power to the fuel pump "motor" - pin #4 on the connector. That wire also comes off the "Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch" which is mounted to your firewall - inside the engine compartment. It's about twice the size of a Bic lighter, is white plastic, is mounted vertical (up and down) near the washer fluid container and has a black rubber cap on top. Push the top (cap) down a couple of times before you try starting next time. Try starting, if you hear the pump whirring away the inertia switch was "open" - not making electricity flow through it. Pin #3 is a black wire on the pump connector and is ground so with a meter you would attach to the black wire and the white with purple stripe wire to get 12VDC once the ignition switch is turned to position where dash lights come on and bell chimes. It only last 5 seconds and then stops, so be ready to check when key is turned.

 

Well, it's not the inertia switch, that did nothing.

When I get it up here somehow, I can do the fuel filter. Again, I really don't know how to do the wire test you talk about. I can deal with sticking it in and seeing if a light goes on, but connecting what to what and what goes to 12 and how I really haven't the foggiest idea how that works. I know that's stupid of me but I am just stupid. And so sick this morning, I am so worried I won't be able to have my surgery tomorrow and just basically miserable oh well

--

later -- sorry this was so abrupt, I was coughing horribly and so cranky.

 

Nah, you're not stupid. I have a hard time dealing with 12v myself.
- Disconnect the female plug from the fuel pump
- Find the white/purple wire and determine which pinhole it goes into.
- Stick the pointy end of the test light into that pinhole, make sure its actually making contact with the metal inside the plug.
- Take the clamp end of the test light and clamp it on the cargo door latch pin.
- Turn key to PosII and RUN back to see if light is On.
- If the light is ON then your pump is getting power. If you can't hear it running then the pump is bad and needs replacement.
- If the light is Off then the pump is not getting power and you need to figure out why.
- Go to the drivers rear wheel well, disconnect the plugs, and repeat the test light process. Make sure the clamp end is grounded VERY WELL.
- If your grounding spot is questionable you can take a length of wire and connect it straight to the Negative(-) battery terminal. Then connect the test light clamp to the other end of that wire.

Your fuel filter has nothing to do with your pump not running.

Good luck with your truck and your surgery!!!

 

Don't know if it was mentioned or as to I just skimmed through the conversation. When mine wouldn't started after rebuilding the fuel pump and check for power it was the fuel relay attached to the main relay under the hood, guess it was bad all the cranking and whining on the starter was back feeding power and melting the relay. Bought a used one off of eBay and crank like a charm. I also bridged my interia switch, just for peace of mind in the future. Hope that helps