The Discovery I Gems Pre-AEL which is what the 96 and the early 97's like I have basically have a sealed pressurized system. The gas cap even states to turn slightly, allow it to vent, then remove. I expect and appreciate a good strong hiss and a healthy stream of fuel to the fuel rail and back, and can assure you that is a split in a hose or a loose connection or a pinhole in a corroded filter, or a pinhole in a fuel feed or return line will leak bigtime with the full pressure behind it as long as fuel is available. It may run , but not strongly and will sputter going uphill. I know all of this from repeated multiple experiences with my early 97 DI.

Mine had a split in the plastic top by the return line. After repeated attrempts to expoxy, I bought the Pro-Line hundred dollar pump because I could not find a top anywhere.

I did not drop the tank and I replaced almost everything on mine. I did not do the little vent lines. I have read where others did drop the tank to do that on theirs. If you do decide to drop it, make sure it is pretty close to empty.

 

It was so much pressure that i can here the tank moving as the pressure was released. It is also making the fuel gauge rise as i am driving. This amount of pressure doesn't seem to be normal.

 

You need to go to the parts store and either rent or buy a fuel pressure guage and attach it at the schrader valve. Quickly!

Is that port still open on the top?

 

You do know that the charcoal cannister and the purge vavle are connected via a tube from gas tank to the cannister to the purge valve and into the intake to route fumes back to intake. That is the Pre-AEL system.

I would be very concerned if it has that much pressure, unless you like driving a fireball. Atomized pressurized gas vapors pack a hell of a punch when ignited suddenly.

Or maybe you will be featured on CNN or Utube if someone videos it.

 

Yeah it is, that is why i am not sure what the hell is going on with this thing. this just started last night. What should i see with the fuel pressure? what are the factory specs?

 

Ok went to the parts store and no luck on the gauge. I have been driving with the fuel cap halway down.

Is there any way just to delete this part of the emissions stuff? Has anybody ever done it?

 

I would not be driving it as is until I found out some more info. Can you get in touch with the PO or whoever you bought it from?

One consideration that occurs to me, no one in their right mind would just sit the pump assy in place and not tighten it. You found it that way and you reinstalled it, now you have immense pressure. Could it be that it blew apart from the first installation?

The correct pump is 36 psi under normal conditions. ince the one you have is not the correct one, it could be a totally different range. I certainly do not know.

Instead of ripping out other stuff and further bastardizing the beast I suggest put it back to what it should be. Whether you get a used pump, fix the used top that you have or whatever, you still need to operate at the correct spec'd range or it will never perform correctly in my opinion.

Pull that pump out and see what numbers are on the pump itself. You can buy replacement internal pumps themselves, but I would put it back to original configuration.

Do you have to pass Emissions Inspections? The more you alter it, the more weird codes you can expect to get.

And you do not want to run with no gas cap either. Right now you have too many unknowns and god knows what configuration.

Is there a Harbor Freight near you? They sell the fuel PSI gages cheap.

 

Well there is a harbor frieght near me but I can not get there until Sunday. I did jump the valve next to the canister and I can hear it clicking when I do jump it. So now I am stumped.... I guess I will be fixing this spare housing I have tonight.

 

Um, you know that the pre ael uses a vented gas cap right? Nope, nobody has even touched on it. Get a vented gas cap please, you two are killing me.

 

Man now I am confused but I'll spend the 10 bucks to try it out.