Bah, one thing fixed and then two more break.

I opened up the diff lock shifter from the top to figure out why I could shift into diff lock by reaching up and spinning the linkage by hand from underneath but no joy from the shifter.

What I found was very depressing. The fulcrum stud that holds the middle of the vertical lever that spins the engage disengage rotator for the diff lock is sheared off and dangling from the lever.

From rovers north site:



First question; after panicking a bit and thinking the worst - this stud threads right into the trans housing - upon further inspection it appears that it may have a locking nut on it that might be removable leaving me enough of the stud sticking out to grab and remove. Can anyone confirm this?

Also, good ol rovers north wants $71(!) for this stud. Any suggestions for a source that won't violate my person as such to obtain this part?

Any help is appreciated.

 

I would panic........ but I have an old fashion hardware store that seems to have everything under the sun. I know I've seen it in one of their bins there but I'm not sure what it's called.....a gate bolt? For sure I'd be looking in the eye bolt bins.

I just went through this with the nylon cup. RN wanted $12 and I said - nah, I'll make my own. I cut the vibration damper off and TIG'd the two sections plus added another 1 1/2" to make it so I don't have to lean in to shift. I also drift punched the neutral switch pin out (binding) so now I can shift into low to yank somebody's granny outta the snow banks.

What ever happened to straight forward gear shifts? This parts bin engineered piece of fluffy bunny cage contraption aint cutting it for me. This summer it's getting modified to last long after I'm dead and gone.

 

Agreed - I'd like to chat with the engineers that came up with that jangly dollar store contraption.

Since you have obviously been in there let me ask you this. It appears that the fulcrum stud threads Into the cover of the transfer case, which appears to be a mostly flat plate that the shifter box mounts to. I'm wondering if it is possible to remove that plate without dropping the transfer case ie while it is still in the truck.

The is very little room to work from the top with the cover rivets drilled out and cover removed. I am considering cutting an access hole in the trams tunnel if necessary. Hopefully it isn't. I was working in the pouring rain and didn't want to get under in the wet to fully investigate.

Any advice you can render is extremely appreciated.

 

If you think that is bad you should try a Range Rover Classic Heater core. The first instruction is to remove the front doors....

I would try ace hardware or a tractor supply, I'm sure you can find something that will work just fine.

 

Remove center console. Pop off center plate on top of automatic shifter. Remove clip, remove plastic half moon piece, pull out side push button, remove spring. Unscrew 19mm(I think) bezel nut. Now pull up on shifter ****. People have knocked out teeth when it releases, be careful.

Unscrew 4 Phillips around graphic film plastic box assembly. Remove. Unscrew 4 bolts/screws securing automatic shifter assembly, wiggle/maneuver shifter out of tunnel hole. Do not disconnect linkage, set shifter to side.

Drill out rivets around CDL shifter rubber boot. Remove.

Use a 1/2 socket with extension to remove nut securing dif lock linkage to t case. Use an extended pair of needle nose pliers to remove clip on lowest clevis pin that's attached to hi lo adjustment on t case. When pushing out clevis pin, make sure not to lose nylon washers(2). I put a white towel under the car to catch them if they fall.

Unbolt 4 10mm bolts around perimeter of CDL shifter assembly. Remove entire shifter.

The fulcrum stub bolts into shifter assembly, not trans.

 

Tractor supply, good suggestion Bill, I'll bet that's the place to find "something" real close. I know it's hardened, that's the only requirement that's not gonna be easy to match.

Brother Geek, your in luck, 4X10mm bolts remove the aluminum pedestal that the shifter is mounted to and that fulcrum bolt is mounted to it. The fulcrum bolt has a clear hole tapped all the way through so it can be accessed from the nut end or from the other side. Either way you'll not have too much trouble removing it. You have to drill the tranny shifter rivets to get access to the pedestal mounting bolts. Easy peasy. I drilled all mine out so that I can remove and clean up the tranny shifter housing and do a little lube maintenance/remove the shift lock pin. Found a penny in mine? Glued by 16 years of spilled coffee with allot of sugar...... Looks like **** carpet inside it. Gonna do away with the bulky looking lit gear selector and just put a simple plate over the shifter. No console, did away with that three years ago....it was in my way.

 

I didn't need a white towel, the entire Northwestern area is a white towel. I found every part right under the truck as soon as I pulled forward, easy. My hands on the other hand couldn't feel a thing, I woulda dropped the ball, block hands. Used to it. We have two seasons here, winter and not winter. If it gets to 50 I'm sweating my nads off like a stuck moose. I was gonna clean up the housing and pedestal and then I realized.....nobody can even see it, why bother? Maybe a shifter under glass is in order......besides I enjoy looking through the hole at my front drive shaft rotating.......total gear head. Found an exhaust leak too.....amazing what 10 degree weather can provide.....puff, puff, puff......oh look, my pipe's breathing.

 

Heh, block hands seems like the only work I do on me beloved rover is with big dumb block hands made bigger and blockier and dumber with cold. My neighbors peer out their windows at me rolling around in my subzero driveway with a floor lamp tipped over under my truck in the dark to finish a job. Would that they understand the why and what for I'm out there, breathing the breath of life into my beloved truck yet again on time and under budget.

But I digress. Thanks for the input, it is what makes this board stop number one when the chips are down. Abran, will PayPal you tomorrow brother. That shifter looks clean enough to eat off of and will do the trick I'm sure. I can wait a week as this weekend they are calling for a windy twenty degrees and snow. Ihscouts I know you laugh at us whining about a balmy twenty degrees, as I say to peeps here "if you think this is cold then you ain't never been to the real cold" but it is all what you are used to I guess.

Thanks again for the replies, I will post back with pics/updates as always for search purposes etc. This forum is awesome.

 

Poet Laureate if there ever was one, floor lamp and all.......“You, of course, are a Rover--But were always a Rover.”

I'd still hit up Tractor Supply just because....... Oh look, Massey Ferguson LED tail lights!!! They're on SALE!!!!!! You just never know what the sale will be on......and where it can be grafted to your Rover.

I'm not laughing at the temp......there's always someplace worse than where I built my doorless, windowless grass hut facing Lake Mich-it's-too-damn-cold-Again. You know its really cold here when everybody in the neighborhood is actually watching a Lions game......for free....on TV. Excuse me, I'm getting sick again.......left over pumpkin pie from Green Bay.

 

I actually found a very similar part as the fulcrum stud at a boat supply store. It's called a swage bolt, used for rigging wire. Plus they come chrome plated and all purty...