Yes, I have also replaced the entire upper intake manifold.

 

Sounds to me like you need to take both ECU's and the truck to a shop with a Rover-compatible scanner. When you replace the IACV and TPS, you have to get into the ECU and tell it to read new values 90% of the time. Sometimes you get lucky, but mostly no amount of fiddling will get it to read right.

They should be able to get into the ECU and see why you can't read it as well. If the light comes on when you turn the key on, but extinguishes when started, it is working, but not throwing any codes. If it is getting funny values, it may be confused and not throw anything until the parameters are right.

Take it to a shop.

 

Took it to a rover shop, The Autologic could not read the system, They wanted 200 bucks just to tell me why.

 

Hmm..

I know that you said you took it to a shop. But they may not have had the right tools to speak to the land rover computer. I still say take it to a dealer. I know they suck. But their computers tell a lot more

 

Once again, The dealer wants more then the truck is worth, I would rather scrap the truck then take it to the dealer.

 

Ok, I am going to call a few shops and get it down to one.

 

Sorry. Didn't see your post right above mine.

It shouldn't have cost more than 1hr which at most lr and European specialty shops charge 90$ an hour.

 

Don't ask the shop if they have a computer. Ask if they have testbook. It is the software that the dealer uses. If they don't have testbook don't waste your time. I use an indie here in Fort Worth that has testbook and he charges me 50 bucks to reset unless there is a problem then he doesn't charge me, lets me fix the problem, and bring it back to have the parameters reset then charges me the fifty bucks just one time. That is what you need to do. No more screwing around with any old indie. And I am with you. Don't take it to the stealership. They are going to charge you an arm and a leg and then jerk your chain some more. Good luck! And don't give up. Mine has been broke down for 3 weeks but I will eventually get it fixed. It takes a while to get them to semi-reliable status and you just can't give up. Hang in there.

 

We need to you get6b this figured out so that others with this problem can find a cure too.

 

Autologic should be able to read it. You are not going to get a fix unless someone can scan it. I would highly doubt anyone on here will tell you a fix, and someone needs to be able to go hands on. (with a computer).

If you can not see anything funky with the wiring, you may just have to cough up the $200 and have the shop diagnose it.

What started all of this? Why did you try to read the codes? What was hooked up to it?