Ok, nice day, I'm taking the front cover off to get to the oil pump and see the issue. I have the pan dropped, radiator out, fan off, about to take the cover off the bell housing to help me take the crank pulley off.

My question is this,

In the RAV, it says I need to remove the distributor, and to get the engine to N. 1 piston is at TDC before I do this. How do I tell? I don't see anything in the RAV that says how.

I hate how the rav jumps you from section to section. Is there a simple step by step to getting to the Oil Pump?

 

Other options include - breaker bar with socket on crank pulley bolt, brace against ground, bump starter. And pix - old belt wrapped around, and just putting some good wood on it.

 

I guess my big question is getting the engine to #1 TDC. If I remembers correctly, that would be the front left (pass) piston fully up. but not sure how to tell if it's on the compression stroke without taking off the valve cover.

I have the timing mark lined up right to the T. I would think that as long as I keep it there and mark everything, I should be able to pull the Dis, and everything should go back together again right later. If I do happen to end up 180 out, I should just be able to rotate the engine 180 again and fix that correct?

 

#1 cylinder is the first one drivers (left) side, TDC just mean the piston is at the top of its travel and the very next micro mm it starts moving down.
Heres what we used to do, remove spark plug from #1 cylinder, stick a long screwdriver into spark plug hole, turn engine over by hand until the screwdriver starts to move back down, then back the engine up by hand until you are satisfied that #1 cylinder is at TDC.
It does not have to be TDC for the compression stroke.

 

left side is drivers side (USA) See, standing in front of the truck looking at the engine the left would be the passenger side. So good clarification.

Everything is out. BTW, the 2x4 idea was great and worked like a charm!

The timing chain seems to be really loose... floppy loose. I shot a video showing it and the scoring on the oil pump gears and faceplate.

Plus here are a few pictures.

I guess the next question would be should I be worried about the amount of scoring I see, how would I address it if need be, and is this amount warrant a new cover or? If a new cover, It would seem to me that would be the end of the engine due to it's cost...

I'll go out and get video now....

Edit...

Here's the video....

http://youtu.be/kIJ4JTk4tRA

 

How many miles are on it?
I cant say anything about the scoring, I have no idea if that will effect oil pressure or not.
If it does I would not spend the money on a timing chain unless you were also replacing the front cover, just put it back together and drive it while you figure out what you want to do.
If the scoring makes no difference then replace the timing chain.
I do not know if it is worth it to buy a used front cover or not.

 

Says 150k.

I dropped Will Tillery an email about it also, asking his opinion and of course to see if he had a used cover. The scoring is the ONLY thing I see wrong with the gears and the cover so it must be the issue... But I'm not going to drop 500 bucks on a new cover for this engine...

 

Why are you worried about your oil pump? Do you have low pressure?

If you do get a new front cover obviously dont buy a brand new one if you dont have to.. It's not like you're doing a fresh build on a all new engine just replace what is worn with something that isnt. Especially if nothing was wrong with it to begin with and you're just doing preventative maintenance

 

Yes, low pressure. Oil light on when at idle and nasty ticking which can be heard here....

95 Land Rover Discovery 5 Speed. - YouTube

I'm also looking into the option of polishing out the current scoring, I need to check to see if the damage is within the wear specs tomorrow.

 

Did you try cleaning oil pick up??? How's the sludge in this engine?