Seems very easy and interesting. Thanks for putting it all together.
So a couple of questions.
1. did you use the factory wiring for the front door/tweeter speakers as well as the rear column speakers?
2. if not how did you wire them?


thanks
ed

 

Yes and no.

I pulled the harness from the stock amp on the 'out' side and spliced wire from the new head unit speaker wire outs to the harness; effectively bypassing the stock amp, while still using stock wiring thru the truck. The tweeters are maintained because they are wired into the harness with the fronts. They are also filtered so they still work just as they did stock.

Make sense? I know it sounds a little confusing every time I read it.

 

Basically what he said was he took out the amp's harness (Either under the passenger seat or under the glove box). He then wired the new head unit wires to those wires at the harness. Since the harness is wired to all the speakers he is using stock wiring. I will post instructions from an earlier thread.

 

amp bypass walk through:

what you will need:

about 12 feet of speaker wire (16 to 12 gauge will work although 12 is harder to run through the dash, also pick a speaker wire that you can easily tell polarity I would suggest a red and black set)
electrical tape
wire stripper and crimper (either all in one tool or 2 separate tools)
at least 8 - blue T taps ( and maybe a small pair of pliers to close these)
at least 8 - blue male spade connectors
at least 11 - blue butt connectors
handful of zip ties for a cleaner install (the zip ties are optional)
you can get all of this at Walmart

step 1: remove the radio, remove the glove box, locate the amp and unplug the plug/harness.

step 2: hold the plug in hand (do not let go until the next step) and locate the 8 speaker wires in that plug. The 8 wires should be as follows:
Black/Brown = left front -
Black/White = left front +
Black/Red = right front -
Black/Pink = right front +
Black/Orange = left rear -
Black/Yellow = left rear +
Black/Blue = right rear -
Black/Green = right rear +
each set of speaker wires will be twisted together a couple inches from the plug (for example the black/brown wire and black/white wires will be twisted together for the left front speaker)

step 3: you can now let go of the plug. Crimp the T taps on to each of the above wires roughly 4 inches from the plug that was just in your hand. (these wires may all be wrapped up together a few inches from the plug, just try to remove a few inches of this wrapper)

step 4. cut your speaker wire into 4 equal lengths of 3 feet each. Label each length LF,RF,LR, and RR at each end with some masking tape (see step 8). (if you have the zip ties you can zip tie the 4 runs of wire together into 1 thick run of wires)

step 5. crimp the male spade connectors to one end of the 8 speaker wires

step 6. connect the male spades to the T taps be sure to align your labels to there corresponding wires. (example your front left labeled wire will be attached to the black/brown and black/white wires).

step 7. run the other end of your wires up through the dash to the back of the radio. this will take some time, and I will warn you there is nothing safe behind the dash, I have drawn blood about 75% of the time doing this part of the job! you may find using a straightened metal coat hanger will help you run these wires where your hands can't get.(when your done, zip tie the wires clear of moving parts like the glove box and heater cables)

step 8. determine what wire is what at the loose ends of your new speaker wires. Hopefully you labeled them correctly, if not you will need to "pop" the speakers with a AA battery (hopefully you won't need to do this but if you do I will walk you through it)

step 9. connect your new wires to the wires on the back of the aftermarket radio with the blue butt connectors.
aftermarket radio colors are as follows:
white = front left +
whit/black = front left -
gray = front right +
gray/black = front right -
green = left rear +
green/black = left rear -
purple = right rear +
purple/black = right rear -
you can use your Metra harness for the yellow, red, and black wires (power wires).

step 10. connect the antenna and test, if it works then install the radio in the dash and put everything together.

 

Awesome! Now I can by pass the amps and take advantage of the stock wires. This helps out a lot. I current have a component set Infinity Reference 6010cs. I was thinking of using the tweeters to replace the existing tweeter (stock ones sound blown) and the 6 1/2 woofers in the woofer box in back and just toss the component box that splits the signal.

I already swapped out my 4" speakers with Pioneer TS-G1043R speakers. They fit but it is tight in the front door. They sound good and have the following specs: power range: 2-25 watts RMS (120 watts peak power). So the door and column speakers sound good, but the sub-box in back sounds like crap. I looked at it and the foam rim is gone on both speakers.

But I was uncertain about using the infinity 6 1/2 woofers without the component splitter and if they would produce the mid to low bass sound. I do not want a thumper I just want good loud music and enough bass to enjoy a little rock when I am driving to work to wake up.

So I will try the boss amp and use the wiring information to help get things all fixed up once I get a new head unit.

 

Thanks for the info, have been searching for some speaker that will work for my disco

 

The awful rattling noise in the back door speakers, can I simple just install new stereo components in order to fix that? I'm dreadful with these stereo things/ wiring

 

Hey guys, idk if my subs in the rear are blown or not. I installed my new head unit and all 4 speakers. I bypassed the stock amp and just run the speakers off of the head unit which sounds fine. Music sounds great except I don't really have any bass. I was thinking of putting a single 12" kicker or MA but was wondering about the two 6.5". Does it sound good? And where is the wire so I can hook it up to my head unit? I was thinking of using a aftermarket amp to power either the single 12 or double 6.5. Feedback?

 

My pair of 6.5's sound awesome. It really depends on what kind of sound/volume you want. Replacing the head-unit and retaining the stock amp/sub config requires another harness I think. I don't remember where the subwoofer signal comes from in the original configuration. I almost want to say it comes from the 'out' harness on the front amp. If you're going to wire an amp and run wires for a sub, you should try the stock location. The 6.5's aren't overwhelming but sound great.

Unless you're a rap-guy... you might want a 12 in that case.

 

The subs that are On the door have their own amp built into them. They suck. Mine were blown out too. But honda if you take the grill off (and if I recall correctly, you have to take the whole plastic housing off) you can simply unplug them to stop the horrific rattle. It's just unscrewing Phillips heads until you get to the speaker plugs and just pop em off. I hadn't considered running new 6.5" subs because if you're gonna have to power em anyway you might as well power a sub in the cargo area and not run two tiny ones on the back door increasing chances of rattle etc. I built a sub box for one of the jump seat locations in the back. If I ever get a new head unit I'll throw it in. I'd like to cover it in the same stuff I re do my headliner with. Think it would look cool. I'll take pics when I get home if I remember.