Why would you suspect the crank or bearings? Is there info you are not sharing that is pointing at these items?

 

When you pulled off the balancer, did you inspect the crank nose? Woodruff key and slot? Timing cover? If you are still leaking after a new seal, I would suspect the new seal was not installed correctly(slightly crooked maybe) and is not seating on the crank completely.

 

I imagine that it must be the crank or bearing because, I am still seeing some movement on the balancer. Its less than before. It still exists. That is the only thing I imagine that it could be?

 

If there is movement, I doubt it is the crank. You would have bigger problems than a slightly moving pulley. Forward and back or up and down movement?

 

CB, they need a new crank because of it's snout being deformed by the original pulley wobble. It's considerable enough to cause the replacement to wobble although not as severely as the old because the replacement pulley's I.D. is still decent. In time it won't be. It's enough to cause a double lip seal to leak.......eh.

Preple, your going to have to do some homework on your own. Very, very few automotive shops can do snout repair with the motor still in the vehicle. Your going to have to see if you can find a shop in your area that is willing/capable to do this. It's less than a new refurbished 2k crank. It's hard to find good LR cranks to refurbish hence the high cost. LR isn't forging any new ones for replacement........

Keep us posted.

 

Can you define your "roar" at start up?
Are you sure it is not just the engine fan?
Have you started the engine with the fan belt off and see if the noise is still there?
This will rule out all other things making any noise.

 

Good suggestion.......P. (By the way....my son picked up a 98 Dodge Ram 2500 HD 4X4 and have been working on guess what? Exhaust manifolds leaking and round headed, corroded bolts. Fun. I have no time to sit anymore except when I can't make myself move any longer. Drove in near white-out conditions last night and allot of touch freight.....12 hours of pure suck.)

I should have said, "They where told they need a new crank....". The shop they're dealing with is going by the book......

 

Ah yes...rusted exhaust manifold bolts...we had a good snow storm too Fri, now it's 40*F and sloppy.

 

'Roar' when you start-up is something you never noticed before? Usually that is associated with the clutch-fan on start-up. Goes away after a 5-10 seconds at idle.

IH you must have gotten the storm that passed through here and left 17" of snow in the mtns Sat night! Powder days are here again...yipee!!! ;-)

 

Remove serpantine belt, and crank when engine cold. Bet it won't roar. That noise is the proper operation of the viscous fan clutch. The silicone inside pools to one side overnight, then it couples at the highest prercent possible when cranked, rotation forces and heat make it move around inside the clutch, an decrease coupling to about 20% when normal warm temp. If it gets hot, it will recouple at maximum to boost cooling. When engine is warmed up, and stopped, you should be able to spin the fan by hand and release, it should not continue to spin for more than 1/2 to 1 revolution. Freewheeling means you will overheat in slow traffic and parked. Really stiff or frozen means you will have poor fuel economy, increased water pump bearing wear, and perhaps fan will wobble, shatter, and go thru the radiator and the hood. You can also use a broom handle to press against other things that are moving, when belt is on, and see how much noise is coming from alternator, PS pump, etc. Just put your ear to the other end of the stick.