Ok now. Imanaged to run a tap in to redo the 1 or 2 threads that were messed up.

Still waiting for the manifold to exhaust pipe gasket to arrive to install the new pass side manifold. I found the studs much easier to access to if the exhaust manifold is not yet mounted to the head.

Now trying to change the bearing of the tensioner idler but I cant remove the spring clip. Gotta find some sharp and very strong tool.

So that'll wait for now.

 

Done. Used that method.
300TDi belt tensioner. - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

 

Still waiting for the exhaust gasket and a new top coolant hose. Just did some cleanup.

 

Where is the gasket coming from?

 

Napa. That's where I got my tensioner bearing and 8mm 12pt 1/4" socket for the valve covers. They're usually quick and have no shipping charges.

 

Got back to it tonight . Filled it up with fresh coolant, started it for a minute to warm up the oil a little (it's only 40F out here ). Dumped the oil and filled it up with Rotella 15W40.

Runs smooth although the noise I thought that came from the cracked exhaust manifold is still there. Fairly loud at startup then much quieter as pressure builds up, . Sounds like a bad lifter. Havent't run the engine to normal temp yet. We"ll see on saturday.

Time for a easy drinkin' cool one.

Cheers

Richard

 

The engine temp of my 98 Disco climbs higher than it used to do before I did the head gaskets.

I have the std 88deg thermostat (190F). It's new from last year I checked it in hot water before installing it and it was dead on.

Before the gasket change, the temp on my scangauge II used to climb up to 94 (201F) before the thermostat would open and the temp would drop to around 87 (189) before going up again and stabilizing at 91 (196F) while driving at 90km/h (56mph). It now climbs to 96 (205F) before going back down to 87 and stabilizing at 91 (196F) but easily climbs again to 94 as soon as I hit an uphill stretch and zipped up to 100 (212) when I climbed a ski trail.

I suspect that the engine now has a better combustion therefore producing more heat. It was definitely more torquey on the climb and since the engine had a lower rev, the fact that the engine rev was lower, I guess the fan would not provide as much cooling.

I thought that 212 was way too high based on some comments I read on the Forum, but since Rave says that the electric fan should turn on at 100 (212F), or when the a/c's turned on, this should be OK.

I changed the fan viscous coupling last year. It does offer resistance to turning when hot although not jammed solid.
My radiator was flushed 3000miles ago but never rodded.
After a drive , the sides and top are hot, and it is progressively cooler going toward the bottom.

Is that a normal temperature behaviour or should I go ahead and get the radiator rodded? .

Thanks for any advice

Richard

 

My indy rad shop said fins top to bottom should be 10 degrees or so different. Much lower on bottom can indicate that lower rows are clogged, so less volume (if any) coolant is going thru there. My indy shop hot flushed and rodded and soldered a couple of spots for $70, he mainly works on big construction and farm gear, I carried rad in. But mine was full of calcium from PO failure to use distilled water.

I got tired of these heat spikes above the number you see, and installed a 180F stat. Runs 180 - 183 at 85F outside, 70 mph. May slide up to 187 or 190 stopped for long time in traffic. Nope, I'm not in the frozen north, so I don't freeze to death. Same temp as stock Buick Skylark in '63 used. Same temp stat stock in SWMBO's 06 Kia minivan, owned since new 216,000 miles, 180F like it was welded up. So much for "your engine will wear out faster", "modern engines have to run hot", etc.

Can your engine run at 212? Yes. Rover wants to cool it down to 202F, that is why fan comes on. Problem is that without too much trouble that 212 becomes 219, 221, 227, etc. And the gauge pretends it a'int happening, so you ignore it, and more things cook.

If your rad needs it, the rodding out will help. Thermostat is $10. Changing to lower stat with clogged radiator is only hiding a problem that will slowly get worse.

 

Wow! That picture is impressive! How are the side covers fastened to the rad? Crimped or soldered?

Are the oil and tranny lines easy to deal with when you take the rad out? Just plug them so they don't leak?

 

On a D1 the rad is copper and brass and side tanks are soldered. Easily removed and replaced by rad shop. On D2, buy new rad.

Taking out rad is easy, will have slight fluid loss from oil lines (battery side) and tranny lines (driver side). Lines are not under pressure when truck is off for a while. New O rings is good idea. See attached drawing from the engine side. I made this on my etch-a-sketch (well, actually it comes from the RAVE). I tried flushing mine with reverse garden hose, white vinegar sitting inside it, and finally muriatic acid (brick washing acid) sitting in it. Did not get the results of the pro shop hot flush and rod out.

Note: I tried a used rad from salvage, and the oil cooler side was 99% blocked, fired up truck, went looking for rad water leaks, came back and oil light was still on! Immediate change in pucker factor. So when you are done, wait for oil light to go out before checking for water leaks.....