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Head gasket replacement help/advice

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Old Aug 15, 2015 | 07:29 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by ihscouts
14 bolt heads are earlier, 10 bolt are later and it looks like yours is a 10 bolt from what I can see...... early heads used thin gaskets, later used thick. The combustion chambers differ to match gasket thickness. Bottom line, I'd say whatever you pulled off gets matched eh.
Oh OK, it appears I got the right set then. I wasn't sure because the engine in the truck isn't the one that came in it. I got the Fel-pro as you suggested.

So in the book it says to tighten the heads to 20Nm (that's only 15lbs is that correct?) then turn 180. I'm assuming I can do 1/4 turns twice in the torque sequence. I think I'd feel more comfy with that.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2015 | 08:18 AM
  #42  
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Cool on the FelPro's. That is correct but I wouldn't do four 45* turns, keep it to spec at two 90* turns. The easiest way to get those turns is with a long handle 1/2" breaker bar with a handle socket for extensions. Or find a pipe you can slip over it. For instance I add a 1/2" drive speed handle to my 1/2" drive breaker bar, makes a very long handle. Mondo easy to do the last 90* with. I make sure it's all in one motion, no tugging or jerking, just one smooth turn on all 20 bolts two times...... After your initial setting of 15ft/lbs mark each bolt (I use a white paint pen) with a horizontal line put a tick at 90 and at 180 on the head next to each bolt and don't stop turning until your at those marks, smooth gets it. I also mark a tick on the socket with a non perm marker where the line starts because you cannot see the bolt with a socket on it eh. It's like using a degree wheel without the wheel. The whole point of this exercise is to flatten a gasket from the middle out.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2015 | 11:40 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by ihscouts
Cool on the FelPro's. That is correct but I wouldn't do four 45* turns, keep it to spec at two 90* turns.
Cool, that's actually what I meant 1/4 turn (90*).

Good advice on the paint marker, I'll definitely do that.

I'm getting ready to drop the pan and clean it before I put the heads on. I got the front jacked up so hopefully I can get it out without removing tie rods or sway bars.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2015 | 01:09 PM
  #44  
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YUM!!!

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It's actually not as bad as I thought it would be but I'm glad I pulled it off.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2015 | 01:16 PM
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Is that RTV on the oilpan? if so it may have been off before.

Originally Posted by green-lantern
YUM!!!



It's actually not as bad as I thought it would be but I'm glad I pulled it off.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2015 | 11:04 AM
  #46  
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My two cents.
Have had this write up forever

http://jeffreyfall.com/landrover
 
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Old Aug 16, 2015 | 01:29 PM
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4.6 it while apart , worth it
 
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Old Aug 16, 2015 | 06:06 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by drowssap
Is that RTV on the oilpan? if so it may have been off before.
Yes, it appears the head gaskets have been done before. I'm pretty sure somebody has removed the pan.

Originally Posted by TOM R
4.6 it while apart , worth it
??????
 
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Old Aug 16, 2015 | 06:15 PM
  #49  
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Starting to look like an engine again.......too bad there's a F-ing socket down in it!

I've worked on cars for over 30 years and I've NEVER dropped anything down an engine. Bought a magnet to try and get it out but I couldn't get it out. I'm so pissed! I had to walk away before I took a sledgehammer to it and called the scrap yard.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2015 | 08:07 PM
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Where did it fall in? You know it's a Rover right? Your gonna pay for it one way or another....... The curse of Lucas is upon you.

Tom was saying to toss in a 4.6L crank and rods while it was apart...... He did and is saying it's worth the swap. (His rings FINALLY sealed.....lol.)

Oh yeah, nice looking engine...... Too bad we can't leave the trumpets uncovered, actually looks like it's got some guts. Looks like an old fuelie......
 

Last edited by ihscouts; Aug 16, 2015 at 08:13 PM.
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