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Head gasket replacement help/advice

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Old Aug 29, 2015 | 06:49 PM
  #61  
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Apparently this is a common problem. I love to drive my land rover but they have to be the biggest POS to work on. Definitely by far the worst car I've ever worked on and I've worked on a LOT.

Yep, been there.

If you get the middle bolts started and clamp it down a little, watching the alignment, it should stretch it back out a bit, key thing is to only have the centre bolts tightened to allow the rest to move. Few gentle taps with a hammer loosens things up during the process.

Or get a big drill, job done.
So even when I get the center ones tightened there is no F-ing way the rest are going in. So I guess I'll have to drill the F-ing bolt holes out. Next time this thing breaks down I'm setting it on fire and walking away.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2015 | 10:08 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by TOM R
Idk, but the 4.0 and 4.6 stock can are different, 4.6 more lift more duration

The Volvo injectors give smoother throttle
Tom do you have a part number for those injectors?
 
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 12:01 PM
  #63  
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This happened to me on SBC head gasket job I did a couple months ago. I wound up drilling all the holes a little so I could move it where it needed to go. I don't think it's a Rover only problem.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 06:12 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Shiftonthefly1
This happened to me on SBC head gasket job I did a couple months ago. I wound up drilling all the holes a little so I could move it where it needed to go. I don't think it's a Rover only problem.
Yeah I had to drill the outside ones. I've never seen this issue before...Maybe on Buick's also? lol

I spent way too long on that thing. I had to replace one of the lower studs on the manifold also. Good thing is I'm almost done now.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 06:32 PM
  #65  
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Oh and the the kicker is my beer was sitting on the inner fender well and somehow got gas, brake fluid or Liquid Wrench in it......yeah that was disgusting. Pretty sure it was LW.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 09:53 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by green-lantern
Oh and the the kicker is my beer was sitting on the inner fender well and somehow got gas, brake fluid or Liquid Wrench in it......yeah that was disgusting. Pretty sure it was LW.
Lmao! That sucks!
 
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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 06:55 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Shiftonthefly1
Lmao! That sucks!
I can't help but laugh about it now that I don't taste Liquid Wrench when I burp.


OH AND


 
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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 07:11 PM
  #68  
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Had a small coolant leak at the heater core, fixed that, but of course that damn exhaust manifold on the drivers side is leaking badly at the downpipe.......BECAUSE THEY WARP! I've spent longer working on that manifold than putting the engine back together.

Anybody have any tips about the left (US drivers side) manifold to save me another 2 days of dicking with this f-ing thing?

Other than that GD manifold it seems to be OK.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 08:11 PM
  #69  
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Get the manifold nice and hot (stoking hot), try to spin the nuts off the flange studs and hope you don't snap one....... If you do get lucky (no Liquid Wrench in anything) grab some header gasket, if one layer doesn't seal it then double it.

Man, I've worked on at least 30 Rover engines (mostly heads) and not once have I had as many issues as you have. I'm done in a weekend once the heads come back from getting skinned (I schedule them for Friday afternoons). DII's are a Royal PITA and yet I still manage to get them done within two weekends (there was one exception) but I also replaced a water pump and steering pump seals (which made it stop squealing - cool fix).

If the manifold was out that much (1/4") don't expect it to last long before you develop another common fault - manifold cracking........ Me, I would have replaced it with a another..... OR used a ratchet strap to pull in the outer two down tubes but not at that measurement.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2015 | 04:54 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by ihscouts
Get the manifold nice and hot (stoking hot), try to spin the nuts off the flange studs and hope you don't snap one....... If you do get lucky (no Liquid Wrench in anything) grab some header gasket, if one layer doesn't seal it then double it.

Man, I've worked on at least 30 Rover engines (mostly heads) and not once have I had as many issues as you have. I'm done in a weekend once the heads come back from getting skinned (I schedule them for Friday afternoons). DII's are a Royal PITA and yet I still manage to get them done within two weekends (there was one exception) but I also replaced a water pump and steering pump seals (which made it stop squealing - cool fix).

If the manifold was out that much (1/4") don't expect it to last long before you develop another common fault - manifold cracking........ Me, I would have replaced it with a another..... OR used a ratchet strap to pull in the outer two down tubes but not at that measurement.
I'm going to use 2 gaskets when I put it back together. Not worried about getting it back off, that's the easy part. I'll have to replace the stripped stud.

The main thing that has given me issues was that damn manifold. I normally don't work fast, I like to do it once, correctly the first time instead of doing it twice. I get a hour here and 2-3 hrs there. People say I'm way to **** about it. I could definitely been done a long time ago. I guess I can enjoy it more if I take my time (even though this job wasn't that fun).

I have a spare set of manifolds but they were both the same. I'm going to try and tighten the down pipe next time before the manifold. I'll try the ratchet straps if they don't line up.
 
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