Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

Heating up

Old Sep 23, 2020 | 03:50 PM
  #1  
dmenchaca1966's Avatar
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Default Heating up

I installed a new water pump flushed out the radiator put a new thermostat and a fan clutch because it was overheating now I put all the fluids in installed everything the temperature stills goes up but when I press the gas it stops and it kind of goes down a little but still there’s a Higher temperature it’s a 97 disco I don’t know but do I have a gasket issue or do I still need to bleed the system Thanks
 
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 04:36 PM
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You need to burp the system. You can try raising the reservoir, or filling it until fluid comes out of the radiator plug, but I personally just fill the system, leave the cap off, let it get up to say 195F, while squeezing the upper hose, and once the thermostat opens the level in the reservoir will drop pretty good. Top off the reservoir, and continue to squeeze the top hose to burp out any air. Then once the coolant level seems to stay the same shut it down, let it cool, and repeat the cycle. Usually after 2-3 cycles your system will be pretty much bled and free of any air. Top off as needed and call it a day.

How are you monitoring the temps and what are your temps?
 
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Old Sep 25, 2020 | 08:13 AM
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My 99 D1 had the same issue. I tried raising the right front corner and getting it warmed up. squeezing the hoses, etc. I finally realized the heater needs to be in the full heat thermostat setting to get water flow through the heater core. now it runs a bit on the warm side,(about 207 on hot days)and after I first start it and drive about 3 miles, the gauge goes up to the top, then back down, and runs normal After almost 5K miles of this I have decided it was a non-issue and just ignore it unless it doesn't return to the normal level (temp gauge)

Get a good Infrared temp scanner and check temps at the thermostat housing and on the radiator. the dash gauges aren't too accurate.

Does sound like an air bubble is in there...
 
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Old Jul 7, 2021 | 05:11 PM
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I'll throw my two cents in.
As far as overheating w/ ac on, it's when your sitting still, yes?
The condenser fans might be spinning, but not fast enough. Will they hold a piece of paper to the grill?

Extra grounds can't hurt. Have a few from block to frame, body to frame, frame to batt neg.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2021 | 06:20 PM
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Hi everyone. I’m hoping you guys can provide some insight because I have a couple of problems with what is being said in this forum.

#1 I’ve replaced my heater core, there is no valve that opens when your coolant heats up letting coolant into the heater core, your heater core is always receiving coolant. The function of the heat/cold **** is to blend the air from high heat (air completely from the heater core) or high cool (air completely from the outside). So in terms of circulating coolant and expressing air bubbles i don’t understand why we’re saying you should turn your heat all the way up.

#2 The coolant is under a pressurized system (or should be) aka when you twist the reservoir cap off while the system is hot you should hear a hissing sound. If the system is pressurized I don’t understand why you need to do any kind of squeezing of hoses? A pressurized system will send air to the reservoir (the highest point) and after running the vehicle for some time and then shutting off and allowing to cool down and then checking the reservoir you should be able to simply fill the reservoir (this is all assuming that when you check the reservoir the tank isn’t empty)

Am I missing something?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2021 | 10:05 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by jimvw57
My 99 D1 had the same issue. I tried raising the right front corner and getting it warmed up. squeezing the hoses, etc. I finally realized the heater needs to be in the full heat thermostat setting to get water flow through the heater core. now it runs a bit on the warm side,(about 207 on hot days)and after I first start it and drive about 3 miles, the gauge goes up to the top, then back down, and runs normal After almost 5K miles of this I have decided it was a non-issue and just ignore it unless it doesn't return to the normal level (temp gauge).

Mine does this too, except I hit 220ish once or twice until everything gets warmed up. I've burped it, vacuum filled it, replaced everything but the heater core, and it's stayed the same for 4k miles now. I guess it just is what it is.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2021 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by DiscoNewbe
Hi everyone. I’m hoping you guys can provide some insight because I have a couple of problems with what is being said in this forum.

#1 I’ve replaced my heater core, there is no valve that opens when your coolant heats up letting coolant into the heater core, your heater core is always receiving coolant. The function of the heat/cold **** is to blend the air from high heat (air completely from the heater core) or high cool (air completely from the outside). So in terms of circulating coolant and expressing air bubbles i don’t understand why we’re saying you should turn your heat all the way up.

#2 The coolant is under a pressurized system (or should be) aka when you twist the reservoir cap off while the system is hot you should hear a hissing sound. If the system is pressurized I don’t understand why you need to do any kind of squeezing of hoses? A pressurized system will send air to the reservoir (the highest point) and after running the vehicle for some time and then shutting off and allowing to cool down and then checking the reservoir you should be able to simply fill the reservoir (this is all assuming that when you check the reservoir the tank isn’t empty)

Am I missing something?
Any trapped air in the system will go to the highest point and stay there until it is removed. The coolant tank is not exactly the highest point, thus the need to raise the passenger side front corner. The thermostat can block air from escaping unless it has the bypass hole and it is located at the top of the thermostat (12 o'clock) when it is installed. look at the upper radiator hose, it is higher than the top of the radiator tank, and the coolant tank. squeezing the hose can help push the air bubble into the radiator, where it can be removed by the brass plug on top of the radiator tank. Do not open the plug when the motor is hot as you could get soaked by hot coolant.
 

Last edited by jimvw57; Jul 10, 2021 at 11:35 AM.
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Old Jul 10, 2021 | 12:31 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by jimvw57
Any trapped air in the system will go to the highest point and stay there until it is removed. The coolant tank is not exactly the highest point, thus the need to raise the passenger side front corner. The thermostat can block air from escaping unless it has the bypass hole and it is located at the top of the thermostat (12 o'clock) when it is installed. look at the upper radiator hose, it is higher than the top of the radiator tank, and the coolant tank. squeezing the hose can help push the air bubble into the radiator, where it can be removed by the brass plug on top of the radiator tank. Do not open the plug when the motor is hot as you could get soaked by hot coolant.
ah thank you for that.
 
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