Hello all,

I'm currently sacrificing a 1997 SD to revive a 1998 LSE (both NAS) and I wanted to reset the theft system and door locks on the LSE. The system hasn't worked in years because it was missing the keyswitch and lock actuator in the driver's door and spent almost a decade being moved from time to time but with the battery always disconnected in between, which tends to deactivate the theft system and/or make it lose its mind... I'd want to reinitialize the thing with the emergency key access code, which would also be useful to program new handsets, but it turns out that my local dealer's service department in Quebekstan doesn't want to hear anymore about real Land Rovers, they concentrate solely on warranting India built throwaways, and they even tell me they no longer have access to the registry containing EKA codes and radio codes for each VIN. Does anybody here know how one could get his hand on those archives? I can't believe LR just deleted this part of their history...???

Thanks for your inputs

 

rapidradiocodes.co.uk for radio codes, I think £5, but I’m surprised you need one for a D1. My 2001 doesn’t even need one (my ‘97 P38 does though)

 

Thanks for the radio code. I guess the high trim level audio systems were anti-theft... The LSEs have a cassette player with weather band and 6 CD changer port. By the way I'll have a bit more search to do as I also have to repair the LCD display on this old radio. All the functions and buttons works well but the display is just all blurry.

However my main concern is still to have the electric door locks working and the theft light and horn alarm un-messed, as there is no point in sorting out the radio on a car that I can't trust to drive... So the EKA code is still my priority, and I might just lock and unlock it a few more times, just in case it comes back to its senses...

J-P

 

I see you’re Canadian. Most NAS LR’s have the EKA as 1515.

 

Oh Thanks Harvlr, I'll try that out too.

 

I've just tried 1515 EKA code and it didn't work getting the electric door locks back to operating condition. The car starts though, but the door chime stays on the high tone as the engine runs... First time I experience that...

 

Hello guys,

This morning I solved every issue I had and as it turns out, every problem was due to human tinkering and hot rod butchery, by previous owner and me...

The chime I heard solid was due to the transfer case neutral switch being jumped. In the past this truck had a manual conversion and the previous owner put a jumper in the TC neutral switch socket, which was a mistake, but he used butt connectors that were so loose they didn't make contact for years. When I cleaned the harness and added the 480 ohms resistor so the ECU knows it's now stick shift, I re-crimped the loose terminals on the jumper and created a "problem". I just removed the jumper and the TC neutral buzzer is gone. At least I'm happy to know that every function of the chime works :S

As for the door locks not working, I didn't remember, but when I stole the driver's door lock switch/actuator to put on another truck, I had to put back F1 15A in satellite fuse box 1 to make the theft unit work again, and left the parts truck (which is being restored now) without a fuse in the hole! I also had some issues with the MFU functions as the 20A fuse to the right in satellite fuse box 2 was corroded and metled. It acts on it for rear wipe/wash functions, and in order to make it all work correctly I had to undo the terminal in the fuse box to clean it better.

I hope I'm done with un-messing the electronics!!

 

Great news, and thanks for sharing your findings.