Di electric grease is your friend.... just don't use it ON your friends.

I'd ask ROVER CHRIS about the amp and woofer stuff. I believe that is his specialty.

 

I checked for continuity yesterday night and everything is fine;

-Fuel temp to ECM
-Coolant temp to ECM
-IAT to ECM
-MAF to ECM
-TPS to ECM
-IAC to ECM

The possibilities are definitely narrowing. Next step is to check the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, and check continuity between them and the ECM. Anyone has the bench test values I should get from those sensors?

 

New development. It will give you all something to sleep on. The truck sat in a heated garage for the night, and when I started it, it did exactly the same as the hot start thing, it was running like ****, and I had to give it some throttle to keep it running, until it managed to idle by itself, and there was a strong exhaust smell, which indicates , I think, over fueling.

As mentioned in my previous post, continuity has been checked. I spent the whole evening yesterday night, checking the wire harness, cleaning connectors and putting a dab of dielectric grease on cleaned connectors.

I think the issue is bigger than it appeared, basically the truck starts because it's -10*C, otherwise it wouldn't. Any ideas? I found out the camshaft position sensor is impossible to test, and I haven't found values for the crankshaft position sensor. I don't want to throw parts at it until it works.

 

I've been suggested it might be the MAF. Some people told me that the reading should be around 30kg/h or if you prefer around 8g/second. Following this logic it means the reading I get is 100x too small. I have a spare MAF lying around, I'll try to swap it in this weekend.

 

if it was the MAF, more than likely wouldn't start the motor at all.
have you ever tried measuring the voltage and/or adjusting it (if needed!)?

 

I don't think it would cause the engine not to start because the ECM still gets a signal from it. I have to give the truck throttle for it to start.

 

the only sensor (engine management related, not talking security stuff here) which can cause a NO start is the CPS.

A failure or errant signal from the ECT, MAF, IATS, FTS or O2's will simply cause the ECM to react by going into one of a few preprogrammed "limp modes"... it may run like crap but not fail to run.

A good way to test the MAF while it is in place and with the engine running is to slightly modify the probes on your Multi meter. If you can affix a couple alligator clips to the ends of the two probes then place a pin, needle or otherwise small a pointy thing into the "mouth" of each clip. Find which wires are the signal wires in the plug to the MAF and carefully and gently probe the wires... through the insulation and if you go all the way through that is fine... so long as you are making an electrical contact. Then as you rev the engine you'll be able to measure the voltage generated by the MAF as air passes through. I do this all the time...

MAKE SURE THEY DO NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Correct. If the MAF sends no signal, the engine will start then die. However a MAF with a bad signal could cause all sorts of problems. I've been leaning towards a bad MAF with my erratic idle problem myself.

 

have you cleaned it?

 

begin hijack: If you are asking me...Yes, I have. And tested it to heck and back. Everything tests great, so some sensor is sending incorrect signals without throwing codes. That is why I suspect the MAF. :end hijack