I'm going for it but I have Guillo on call if I need him to help with the cover or snug up the oil pan, etc. I still need the cover gasket kit so it'll be a few days before I start.

Cuz, it ticks, it's dirty and i dont know how its flowin.

THE BAD:

1) Tick (sticky lifter?)
2) Unknown oil pressure
3) Oil pan (+) leaks.

THE PLAN:

1) Light desludge (kerosene or other)
2) Reinstall pan (Rightstuff)
3) Install Sandwich
4) 20w50
5) Big Filter
6) Oil Pressure Gauge

and water temp gauge (direct connect) and air filter cause i have 'em.

Two quick questions:

1) Do I need to "depressurized fuel system"?
2) Do I need to remove radiator?

 

1. Won't D1 show coolant temp via OBDII port and an Ultra Gauge?

2. Before all this rent or borrow an oil PSI gauge and do the cold and hot, idle and 2500 rpm readings. Then you will know if you made some progress, not just by noise alone.

3. Fuel and rad can stay where they are.

4. Would advise while the pan is off to clean it out, clean off the pickup screen, and unbolt the pickup tube and replace the O-ring. Use locktite on threads of pickup tube bolts, don't want that puppy to fall off.

5. Can also use ATF in the desluge or BG44 or a variety of things, just don't race down the coast and back because the level of lubrication is imaginary. Plane old kero has served for years.

 

"desludging" an engine an engine that has a tick with additives is not a good idea. Use synthetic oil for a couple oil changes or change the cam and tappets.

Additives, kerosene, ATF, sea foam = bad for cam and tappets. Your engine could last forever with that tick. Trying to fix it with a bottle of something = bad idea. The only additive I would suggest if you are he'll bent on doing it is marvel mystery oil (yes I know it's similar to ATF).

 

Also want to see how much sludge you have? Pull a valve cover. These engines hold most sludge in the top end

 

I have the water temp gauge from last year. If I install it with the new oil pressure gauge I can keep the ultragauge in the D2.

OK, on the rental oil gauge....didn't think of comparing...duh. But I guess that's a big reason I post. I'm sure it won't be as easy as that...I remember needing a special adaptor or something.

I keep thinking the tick developed just after the switch from Mobil High Mileage to Amsoil to Rotella. Also had the front cover done at same time. So do I go with the 20/50 or back to Mobil Synthetic. Hmm.

I'm not sure what to expect from pulling the valve cover. I have the before shot from a year ago but I don't know what he did to it if anything at all. If it's filthy, how do I clean it then?

This is all a last ditch effort to avoid changing the cam and tappets.

Thanks for the tips guys...gotta get that o ring too.

 

Rotella T6 for oil..

If it's sludged up already it means your bearings, cam, tappets are likely worn and on their way out. What you do? rebuild!

 

another vote for not running non-lubricants through your oil system.

use some decent oil for a few changes instead of beating up your bearings with kerosene.

 

so the rotella t6 is a 15/40? that seems close enough to the 20/50? remember i'm above 75 and closer to 90 degrees all year? i'm liking the idea of a synthetic as it didn't tick with synthetic and it did without...kinda.

this is going to be my 3rd to 4th change since last year...so' i'll forgo the clean despite what friends say. be interesting to see it with the covers off again.

so jake...whats a new "bearings, cam, tappets" gonna run in your opinion...labor excluded.

 

All depends

Which cam are you going to run?

 

Slang,

I would also vote for not using the additives or kerosene as that could contribute to more damage than is already present.

The picture does not look all gunked up as far as iIcan see. I like the Castrol 20w50 for the warmer climate and older engine. Or the synthetic as they seem to provide additional protection from wear. Running it on kerosene or anything like that will indeed allow more damage due to the lack of lubrication.

Go ahead and do the oil psi check to show you the current baseline, you maybe chasing a non-problem, I know the tick irritates you but it could run with it for years if it is just a tick. If it is a bad clatter or knock that is different.

Get the oil psi numbers, run premiun gas and use the 20w50 or synthetic. I would be afraid that once you tear into it, you may end up with quite a bit to take care of that may not really be needed. I know you do not want to do it half-assed.

I would really enjoy coming down there to see it all first hand! Whatever happened to that jug of rum I have been drooling for?