'99D1 119000 miles newer plugs/wires Engine sounds great cold.
Engine knocks at operating temperature.
idle to 2000 rpm. right side knock.
if i blip the throttle it goes away for a second as its coming down to idle.
seafoam induction today- yes i have an exhaust leak between the manifold and the Y pipe. BUT i also pulled the injectors- 1 at a time- on the right side and THE KNOCk WENT AWAY when i pulled the right front (#2 cylinder?)
Pulled the oil pan, cleaned a small amount of sludge from the bottom- 1/16 thick... just enough to keep a layer of oil in the pan.
Cleaned the pickup tube- no gunk in the screen, tried to clean it anyway.
Oil pan seemed stained pretty good- possibley has been cleaned before, havent been in the valve covers yet, look nasty from the oil filler.
1500 miles ago i used rotella 5w40 syn and a mobil filter. this time i used rotella 15w40 and a larger napa filter. Previous owner states always changed the oil and only premium fuel but who knows.
I have read a lot of posts about this, and i REALLY wanted to get the 4 oil PSI values before i posted. Its is very aggrivating when trying to get oil pressures the oil gauge needs an adapter, and the oil tester kit also does not come with the correct fitting. And nothing can be found locally.
Is there anything i can look for while im waiting for the correct oil fitting to come in the mail. I will fix the exhaust leak.

 

The fitting that goes in the block is a 1/2 X 20 thread, I found it in the blister pack aisle at Advance Auto Parts. Does your look this dirty/clean? Might want to read this thread about in truck lower end bearings replacing from a member in New Zealand who is quite resourceful. https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...earings-45707/

 

Taking the load off the cylinder and the noise goes away, could be valve train still but may be a connecting rod bearing.
Get your oil pressure numbers first then get back to us.

 

My noise started like this and eventually started getting louder. Unfortunately I am going to investigate after replacing the engine but sounds like a lifter or piston.

 

Sorry it took a few days to get the oil pressure numbers, i ended up tapping threads on the inside of a fitting.
COLD: idle 36 psi
2000 RPM 38 psi
Operating temp. idle 38
2000 rpm 40
I let it idle for about 20 min, i was waiting for the knock to start but it didnt, after 20 min idle was 26 psi and 2000 rpm was 38 psi
If i had taken it for a ride around the block the knock probably would have come back.

 

Buzz, Is that picture with the oil pan off?

 

If you go by the gauge for operating temp that could put you off quite a bit, the gauge shows "normal" for about 135F and up, but oil won't be fully warmed up and would make the idle PSI higher than expected. For instance, if a thermostat is stuck open, engine never warms up, and oil doesn't get to the best temperature as well. But it was dropping as you idled for a long time, and the high rpm pressure is within the book specs.

 

re: Buzz, Is that picture with the oil pan off

No, I have a virtual oil pan... lol

Another member posted it. I'm sure that when I open mine it will look much worse.

But all funny bonz aside, the OP looks to have more difficult problems than just an oil pump. Mike has already indicated two areas to check.

 

so, my options. I was planning on doing the headgaskets in 2 weeks anyway. also there is a ton of oil on the front of the engine, front cover gasket (oil pump seems good), Water pump, headgasket kit... head bolts, obviously valve cover gasket, valley pan, exhaust, and manifold to y-pipe gaskets, heads checked/ resurfaced and not sure how to check valve train. It is difficult to pinpoint the noise to the top or bottom of the motor even with the "bar to ear" method.
With the problem possiblley in the rod bearings or mains should i just pull the motor?
1 Im doing as much top end work as i can.
2 I know the lower bearings can be replaced in vehicle, but sounds like a PITA.
3 Even just checking clearances would be easier on an engine stand.
4 I can pickup an engine hoist/ stand for around $200 and get rid of it for the same price when im done.
5 this vehicle is normally a daily driver. i could put another vehicle on the road for a few weeks if need be.
OR... find a junkyard or used motor and roll the dice.
R+R'ing the motor is definatley do-able. Im not really into rebuilding motors, but checking tolerances is do-able.
looking for some advise, things i havent thought of...
If im tearing 50% of the motor apart to do the heads it seems like it would be easier to do that out of the vehicle AND have easy access to the underside of the motor.

 

check out this thread https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...earings-45707/

Read through the overhaul manual in the general section of the RAVE for this engine, and look at your areas of interest.