Got my new license plate yesterday; what fasteners fit the mounting holes?

Interior lights don't come on when the driver door is opened, but do for all other doors; is there a switch or setting for driver door yes or no? Front interior lamp is on "auto" position.

What all should light up for the bulb check when you first turn the ign key on? Should the Dif Lock light do a bulb check?

Still can't get the T case to shift out of high or to dif lock, so I'll be pulling the boot and foam insert to check. Ran across this interesting youtube video on the subject that shows what the dif lock linkage should do. An interesting watch and listen.


Planning to charge the AC today. The compressor runs but there's not much cooling so I assume it is low; I do have the gages and Vacuum pump in case it is really empty, but hope it just needs a can added.

 

Pull the pin switch in drivers door jamb to see if it is connected, mine is not and the wire is too short to fix it

Diff lock lite is not on for bulb check

Just brake, oil, srs, batt, check engine,seat belt, low fuel

Saw that video before guy is funny, mine was hours to fix had to remove the whole thing and beat it apart it was so siezed , it was the actual shifter not the little pivot he point to

Check that your a/c fans run and tilt the rad back debris likes to get between it and condensor to restrict air

 

Lp bolts on door are metric

 

Thanks, Tom,

Now that I know they are metric I'll see if I can chase the license plate holder threads; they probably had some 1/4-20s or sheet metal screws forced in them by a PO to screw up the threads.

I took out the driver door pin switch and found the wire had come out of the connector; it took awhile but I was able to fish the wire out and found out you shouldn't try to solder the wire back on with the connector still on the switch, though. I knew better but the connectior was stuck on and I got in a hurry and the metal spade end popped off the plunger and it and the spring flew out. I crawled around for half an hour to find the darn spring. Surprisingly it went back together and held, so all doors turn on the inside lights now.

I wish the left side repeater wire was as "easy" to find; that light was gone and I've fished and fished with a bent coat hanger and can't find the lamp holder or its wire. I replaced all the other burned out lamps except brake lights which I found are not working so I didn't get to the AC since having brake lights seems more important than being cool.

Any suggestions on checking the brake light switch? I have the cruise brake switch off and am about to tackle the light switch, but should probably check the lamps first to make sure they are not all just burned out.

Shipwright's disease seems to have set in; the more I fix the more I find

 

Push the hazard and walk to rear, should be 4 yellow lights blinking

Turn on ign. Turn on head lights, push the fog/hold the fog lite button by the tach till it lights

Walk to rear top red on both tail lights should be lit these are rear face fogs

Have someone push brake pedal with ign on to check rest



On front the big yellow lens is only turn signals, same with fender side lights

When you have the headlight switch in the first spot that is what we call park lights, rover calls em city lights, either way it turns on 1 tiny glass bulb in each headlight housing
Plus the red tails

Wish my wire had enough to reach the pin to fix it


To remove tail lights there is a panel on each side in rear then 2 plastic nuts on each light, pita to remove em, ESP if you have rear a/c like me

 

Check

Check

Nope, Nothing (it's in a dark garage so I can see if they come on)

Yep. I replaced one of the little headlight "city lights" and several of the side lamps today.

Yes, a pita. Probably why the left one only had one nut on it. Unfortunately the left taillight unit bulbs are all good, including both filaments of the tail/brake lamp checked on the connector pins, and still no brake lights. All the fuses are OK too, so back to the brake light switch tomorrow.