Basically when you were trying to loosen the nut you managed to un-screw the rod from the lower portion of the shock. This can happen if you are not holding the shock shaft while turning the nut upper portion is turned while the bottom, is held in place.

 

Yup that's exactly how it happened. So word of advice for everyone... invest in a handy pipe wrench! Its really a shame that the dis-assembled shock cannot be repaired. (Add new fluid then seal it back up. But its a lesson well learned.

 

A strap wrench will also work without crushing or scarring the shock body!!!!

It is always good to learn from mistakes, especially the mistakes of others. Thanks for sharing your frustrating experience.

Had any successful stories to share with us yet?

 

Did you soak it with PB BLASTER to help loosen things up prior to jumping on it full blast?

I have learned to spray it good a few times for a few days when fasteners have been undisturbed for a long period of time. It helps out a lot when disassembling major items.

Also use as long a lever arm as possible and use slow steady force. Also a slight tightening movement prior to loosening will break the torque and allow for much easier disassembly with less likelihood of breaking things.

SLOW AND STEADY IS THE WAY TO GO WITH THESE OLDER BEASTS.

 

In replacing mine, I used a 1/4" Drive ratchet with special socket from Advance Auto for the top of the shock and a spanner for the nut. Once it was broken loose I was able to hold the shock while I ratcheted it the rest of the way off.
I have also used vice-grips to hold the top of the shock, and channel lock pliers. I have found it easier to grip up there than to try to hold the shock body itself.

Just my $0.02

 

True true. I did not use any type of bolt removing/loosening chemicals though I have used them in the past on my power steering gearbox components. Generally speaking the bolts broke with average effort, again the issue was holding the shock still. Now when I used the pipe wrench I applied it at the strongest section of the shock - the lower end just above where the shock attaches to the body. When I get my new disco and when i get my new lift kit ill upload a video of HOW TO and WHAT NOT TO DO in regards to installing/removing a lift kit

Ive been here long enough and its about time i contributed something the the forum.

 

Actually groundandpound has the right idea, only resort to a strap or pipe wrench if you destroy the hold point on the shaft.

I'm hoping you didn't use the pipe wrench on the other shocks as well.

 

If you use an impact wrench you can just hold the damper body with your hand or a little pressure with your fingers between the spring coils. The impact will knock the nut loose without transfering a lot of torque to the shaft. It works great for assembling stuff that wants to spin on you too, but for assembly you need something to guage the torque -- like a torque limiting extension (torque stick).

 

Here's where I used the pipe wrench.

 

Look at the corrosion on the threads in your picture. That greatly increases the force required to break the existing torque of the mated fasteners.

The corrosion actually forms a molecular bond between those two metal surfaces greatly increasing the physical bond. Left together long enough, you get molecular migration where the two original surfaces are no longer separate surfaces but have become one.

Using a penetrating oil or chemical penetrant such as PB Blaster relaxes this molecular bond and greatly reduces the force required to break the torque and reduces damage and stripping of fasteners........