I am going to change the fuel filter but it seems to be a little harder than I thought. I have read everything I could find to do this and it seemed to be pretty simple. I'm going to attach a few pictures and was hoping someone could help me out on this one. I know that I need to depressurize the fuel system first. I need to remove fuel pump relay module, then start the engine and wait for it to stall. Then disconnect the battery negative lead. The out flow side of the filter seems easy enough to disconnect but the inward flow seems more complicated. I am also not sure if the filter I bought is the correct one considering the inflow side looks different. Any help on this would be appropriated!

 

Your new filter looks like mine, but your old filter does not. You'll need some PB Blaster on that for sure the day before. May have to buy and attach some sort of hose adapter.

As for pressure, with engine off, battery off, take a rag and press in on the test valve on the passenger side fuel rail. With the keys to the engine in your pocket, not much chance of fuel pump coming on.

 

Well first of all I want to say that this is the most helpful site I've ever been on, you guys are awesome! Do you think the set up I have is stock? Or is this something someone cooked up? Looking in the RAVE all the illustrations show a filter like the new one I bought. Do you have any idea where to start looking for an adapter?

 

see Land Rover Parts, Accessories and Information

and

LAND ROVER PARTS - FUEL FILTER - UPDATE KIT

I'm still trying to see where a filter your style shows up, because in the RAVE diagrams it shows the style with threaded end on both ends. Also two major on-line sources show just the two threaded ends. I would suppose an auto parts store will have something that can be made to fit.

 

It's weird, with the one side being threaded and the other being the nipple. I was really wondering about the upstream side, I wasn't sure if it was threaded in the hose or if it just pulled off. I defiantly don't want to pay $79 for a conversion kit!

 

Yoiu'll probably be able to find a b-a-r-b-e-d adapter to threads, but you'll want to also use a clamp as PSI can hit over 35 - 40.

 

This is going to be a fun fix for sure, I called the two dealerships that are close to me and they both said they had never seen a fuel filter that wasn't threaded on both sides.

 

Made in china, lol. I'm not laughing at you bro.

 

No need to unhook the battery.
No need to depressurize the fuel system.
Just unbolt the filter form the frame, use 2 wrenches and unscrew it from the fuel lines.
Some fuel will leak out.
Use anti seize on the new filters threads.
I had to split the threads on my old fuel filter the first time I changed it because it was rusted to the fuel line.
Now I replace it once a year because it is just easier that way and the filter can be bought at Wal-Mart for about $10.

 

I'm thinking I can just find the hose that connects the steel line to the filter from a newer disco and that should fix my problem. I just have no clue how the hose connects to the steel line. It looks like its permanent.